1 Steam Cars : Phorum
General Steam Car topics
System Controls
Posted by: Peter Heid (IP Logged)
Date: July 29, 2002 01:22AM
<HTML>The discussion of higher voltage systems reminded me of the 32 volt DC lighting systems found on many farms as rural electrification first became available. The 32 volt system was choosen for its low potential for human shock and lower current level than 6 or 12 volt systems. Peter Brow mentioned the possability of a hybrid 42 volt / 12 volt auto as being the first step toward the new 42 volt auto systems. This sounds frightening to me as interim solutions such as this are very expensive for parts and repairs. I think this is the way we will be sent by those who dictate our automotive future. Has any one seen a 42 volt light bulb, fuse or relay yet ? Higher voltages are good for the reduction of wire sizes and in the end, costs. But there are other advantages yet to be introduced in the production auto. The biggest advantage may be seen in the reduction of costs of existing parts such as relays, ignition coils and solenoids. Higher voltages can make these devices smaller and cheaper, and in the case of solenoids, allow them to perform tasks not available to 12 volt components. A 42 volt solenoid may have sufficient power and speed as well as reduced size required to replace the camshaft for the activation of the engine valves in the IC engine. In the past much work was done in this direction to find 12 volt solenoids were to large and weak for the task. If Hybrid 12 / 42 volt systems are introduced, you may see 42 volt engine systems and 12 volt chassis systems. Solenoid control of steam engine valves intrigues me and I would like to see the auto companies head in this direction to provide more parts for steam experimentation.
Peter Heid</HTML>
Peter Heid</HTML>
Re: System Controls
Posted by: Peter Brow (IP Logged)
Date: July 29, 2002 08:57AM
<HTML>Hi Peter,
One thing I wonder about with solenoid valves is the impact loads & noise during valve closing. Cams can be profiled to ease the valve back down onto its seat; this might be tricky to duplicate with a solenoid valve system. If the valves are just dropped on closing, they'll quickly beat the valves & seats to death and the engine will sound like a washing machine full of bricks. However, if this & other problems can be solved, the resulting total controllability of the valves could (theoretically) lead to astonishing results, including in steam engines.
One advantage of classic sliding valve gear (D-slide & piston) is that the kinetic energy put into the valve is largely recouped -- returned to crankshaft -- during valve deceleration. Could this be duplicated with electrical valve actuation?
The articles I found on the web said that 42v will be phased in, as it will take many years to redesign all the electrical components used on cars. The proponents of the new standard don't want to wait that long. Hence the dual-voltage systems. For some things, like light bulbs & radios, 12v is said to actually be better than 42v, though I never found an explanation why.
There are also some 42v skeptics in both academia and the auto industry, who say that it may yet fail to take over the market. Then again, some may be like the carmakers who resisted radial tires because "all they wanted was something cheap, round, and black and weren't too sure about the last two". I am not taking sides; I can use whatever they come up with. The reduced size & weight of 42v alternators appeals to me, but I wonder if there will be more failure problems with smaller gauge wire in a vibration-intensive environment like an automobile.
Other Peter</HTML>
One thing I wonder about with solenoid valves is the impact loads & noise during valve closing. Cams can be profiled to ease the valve back down onto its seat; this might be tricky to duplicate with a solenoid valve system. If the valves are just dropped on closing, they'll quickly beat the valves & seats to death and the engine will sound like a washing machine full of bricks. However, if this & other problems can be solved, the resulting total controllability of the valves could (theoretically) lead to astonishing results, including in steam engines.
One advantage of classic sliding valve gear (D-slide & piston) is that the kinetic energy put into the valve is largely recouped -- returned to crankshaft -- during valve deceleration. Could this be duplicated with electrical valve actuation?
The articles I found on the web said that 42v will be phased in, as it will take many years to redesign all the electrical components used on cars. The proponents of the new standard don't want to wait that long. Hence the dual-voltage systems. For some things, like light bulbs & radios, 12v is said to actually be better than 42v, though I never found an explanation why.
There are also some 42v skeptics in both academia and the auto industry, who say that it may yet fail to take over the market. Then again, some may be like the carmakers who resisted radial tires because "all they wanted was something cheap, round, and black and weren't too sure about the last two". I am not taking sides; I can use whatever they come up with. The reduced size & weight of 42v alternators appeals to me, but I wonder if there will be more failure problems with smaller gauge wire in a vibration-intensive environment like an automobile.
Other Peter</HTML>
Re: System Controls
Posted by: Rolly Evans (IP Logged)
Date: July 29, 2002 12:23PM
<HTML>Components can be a problem. When I built my large boat, the engine driven feed pump is on all the time and the water is bypassed to the hot well by an ASCO solenoid valve. My system is 12DC. ASCO had a problem coming up with a valve 300-PSI rated at 12V. They solved the problem with a valve that had a shuttle valve in it to use the high-pressure side to help operate the main valve. I only had a problem with it a couple of times in fourteen years with dirty feed water gumming it up. Twenty-four volts and up I could have had a direct acting valve. You also have a better selection of motors with higher voltages. Remember the control circuit voltage can be different then the power circuit.</HTML>
Re: System Controls
Posted by: Terry Williams (IP Logged)
Date: July 29, 2002 01:29PM
<HTML>>>For some things, like light bulbs & radios, 12v is said to actually be better than 42v, though I never found an explanation why. <<
It might be because solid state electronics use 12V and 5V a lot. As far as bulbs go, lower voltage bulbs have heavier, more rugged filiments.</HTML>
It might be because solid state electronics use 12V and 5V a lot. As far as bulbs go, lower voltage bulbs have heavier, more rugged filiments.</HTML>
Re: System Controls
Posted by: George Nutz (IP Logged)
Date: July 29, 2002 03:54PM
<HTML>Bulbs,
Much like the lamps in old slide projectors the lower 12 volt lamp allows a shorter/thicker/vibration resistant filament that the original 120 volt projector lamps. The main benefit is they can be burned hotter and greatly increase the Lumens per watt output, have more longevity, and give a much whiter light intensity. More efficient and much sturdier!! Possibly get 10% of the bulb energy into usable light, the rest is all heat!! Peter Heid could give us some input on the new state of the art high intensity LED lamps, so much more efficient and durable, Peter are these new incredibly bright LED's still around 1.5 volts?? Or do they put a bunch in series??
Getting enlightened by this phorum ;o) , George</HTML>
Much like the lamps in old slide projectors the lower 12 volt lamp allows a shorter/thicker/vibration resistant filament that the original 120 volt projector lamps. The main benefit is they can be burned hotter and greatly increase the Lumens per watt output, have more longevity, and give a much whiter light intensity. More efficient and much sturdier!! Possibly get 10% of the bulb energy into usable light, the rest is all heat!! Peter Heid could give us some input on the new state of the art high intensity LED lamps, so much more efficient and durable, Peter are these new incredibly bright LED's still around 1.5 volts?? Or do they put a bunch in series??
Getting enlightened by this phorum ;o) , George</HTML>
Re: System Controls
Posted by: Jim Crank (IP Logged)
Date: July 29, 2002 06:51PM
<HTML>Terry, George,
Correct, lower voltage lamps had a much heavier filiment and when the switch was closed, squirmed around a lot less and thus broke less often.
Back in the silent movie days, little theaters used 32 volt lamps at 900 watts, just because of this. Also, for the same wattage, the filiment was much more compact and easier to collect more of the light to put on the screens than 110 volt lamps.
I have just such a projector in my collection, a 1923 35mm Powers with a G.E. incandescent lamp house. They used an autotransformer so the operator would start from nothing and build it up by swinging a little arm.
With solid state items, it may be an insulation problem and heat buildup that keeps them on low voltage, or so I am told.
Jim</HTML>
Correct, lower voltage lamps had a much heavier filiment and when the switch was closed, squirmed around a lot less and thus broke less often.
Back in the silent movie days, little theaters used 32 volt lamps at 900 watts, just because of this. Also, for the same wattage, the filiment was much more compact and easier to collect more of the light to put on the screens than 110 volt lamps.
I have just such a projector in my collection, a 1923 35mm Powers with a G.E. incandescent lamp house. They used an autotransformer so the operator would start from nothing and build it up by swinging a little arm.
With solid state items, it may be an insulation problem and heat buildup that keeps them on low voltage, or so I am told.
Jim</HTML>
Re: System Controls
Posted by: David K. Nergaard (IP Logged)
Date: July 30, 2002 12:51PM
<HTML>In Re: LEDs; the Voltage is determined by the colour of the light being generated. 1.5-2.0 Volts is enough for red light, blue needs 3-4 Volts. Reference: Einstein's photoelectric theory, for which he got the Nobel prize.
I think the high intensity lamps George referred to are the new high pressure gas discharge headlamps which are such a pain to oncoming drivers. Very efficient but not a compact light source, which means hard to focus, and very strong in the blue end of the spectrum, which means they are superb at destroying one's night vision.</HTML>
I think the high intensity lamps George referred to are the new high pressure gas discharge headlamps which are such a pain to oncoming drivers. Very efficient but not a compact light source, which means hard to focus, and very strong in the blue end of the spectrum, which means they are superb at destroying one's night vision.</HTML>
Re: System Controls
Posted by: George Nutz (IP Logged)
Date: July 30, 2002 01:55PM
<HTML>Dave,
Thanks. I was referring to the LED very powerful white type, Peter has seen them for tail lamps and directionals on motorcycles. Very efficient, they are now making super flashlights with them. You are so right about those infinitely powerful bluish new headlamps, very hard on the eyes.
George</HTML>
Thanks. I was referring to the LED very powerful white type, Peter has seen them for tail lamps and directionals on motorcycles. Very efficient, they are now making super flashlights with them. You are so right about those infinitely powerful bluish new headlamps, very hard on the eyes.
George</HTML>
Re: System Controls
Posted by: peter heid (IP Logged)
Date: July 30, 2002 03:20PM
<HTML>Every bulb used on a tractor trailer except the head lights can be purchased as an LED replacement with no filiment to break, 100,000 hour life and no loss of output over time, there is no better replacement. The correct voltage for the LED varies with the semiconductor and doping material used in manufacture and these also determine the wavelength (color) of the light emitted. Some colors, the same or close in wave length, can be made by different semiconductor materials and require different voltages. The 5.3 candela, 3.6 volt, 20 milliamp, ultra bright white LEDs have a color temperature of 6500 degrees K. and appear much like the xenon bulbs comonly found in newer autos. LEDs are now available in a huge array of colors and most in the ultra bright version. Expect LED headlights in the future.
Peter Heid</HTML>
Peter Heid</HTML>
Re: System Controls
Posted by: Peter Brow (IP Logged)
Date: July 31, 2002 06:01AM
<HTML>Hi David,
Amen on those blue-tinted high-power headlights! I will never drive a car with those things, or install them in a car. I think that they are traffic hazards in night driving, when vision is at a premium.
The latest generation of headlights, with their aerodynamic lenses and custom light clusters, are grossly overpriced and offer no advantages. I remember the headlights in cars of the 1970s/80s; I believe these standardized units are the ones called "sealed-beam units". Work perfectly and cost something like $15 each. I know people who have damaged the fancy new headlights in minor accidents, and had to pay _hundreds_ of dollars to replace them.
The economical older units aren't as pretty, but for esthetic purposes they can be easily covered with aerodynamic sliding panels or mounted to fold or pivot down into the bodywork when not in use. This approach also keeps them cleaner and protects them from being broken by flying stones, debris, etc..
Peter</HTML>
Amen on those blue-tinted high-power headlights! I will never drive a car with those things, or install them in a car. I think that they are traffic hazards in night driving, when vision is at a premium.
The latest generation of headlights, with their aerodynamic lenses and custom light clusters, are grossly overpriced and offer no advantages. I remember the headlights in cars of the 1970s/80s; I believe these standardized units are the ones called "sealed-beam units". Work perfectly and cost something like $15 each. I know people who have damaged the fancy new headlights in minor accidents, and had to pay _hundreds_ of dollars to replace them.
The economical older units aren't as pretty, but for esthetic purposes they can be easily covered with aerodynamic sliding panels or mounted to fold or pivot down into the bodywork when not in use. This approach also keeps them cleaner and protects them from being broken by flying stones, debris, etc..
Peter</HTML>
Re: System Controls
Posted by: Peter Heid (IP Logged)
Date: August 04, 2002 11:30PM
<HTML>I was looking at the Bosch fuel injection systems for use as the burner when generating steam. The "K" mechanical types are of the continous injection varity and though they involve no electronics in the basic functioning of the system, they offer less adaptability then the electronic injection types. The continous injectors are constantly injecting as long as the engine is running and to vary the output means changing the injection pressure or use different size injectors. Another posability, when clustered together for a burner, is to shut down some injectors when not needed but these techniques are somewhat lumpy in operation.
The electronic injectors of the D-jetronic system, introduced in 1968, are still in use today and they are found in the modern L, LH and LH2 injection systems. These injectors are capable of providing a great range of fuel outputs because for normal operation at 1000 RPM the injector fires for only 3 miliseconds or about 10 degrees of crankshaft rotation. If the injector were fired continously, the output would be 36 times the fuel required for normal combustion. If more fuel is required, more injectors can be added very easily. The pressure on the LH system normally runs between about 30 and 50 PSI and is increased by engine vacuum toward the maximum. Using 12 volts, the injectors are opened by solenoid action when the ground is completed by the control unit, requiring little power and insuring a leak proof seal for millions of operations and many years. The fuel filter used in these systems is very important and traps particles as small as 10 microns because the injector tips are so very small. The control of these injectors is very easily accomplished with a microcontroller and transistor switches in the same fashion as the Bosch controller would do but with far less inputs to vary the output. There need not be a vacuum sensor, cold start sensor, idle air bypass valve or solenoid. The air mass meter and the oxygen sensor could be retained to provide the most efficient and pollution free burner obtainable with todays technology.
Peter Heid</HTML>
The electronic injectors of the D-jetronic system, introduced in 1968, are still in use today and they are found in the modern L, LH and LH2 injection systems. These injectors are capable of providing a great range of fuel outputs because for normal operation at 1000 RPM the injector fires for only 3 miliseconds or about 10 degrees of crankshaft rotation. If the injector were fired continously, the output would be 36 times the fuel required for normal combustion. If more fuel is required, more injectors can be added very easily. The pressure on the LH system normally runs between about 30 and 50 PSI and is increased by engine vacuum toward the maximum. Using 12 volts, the injectors are opened by solenoid action when the ground is completed by the control unit, requiring little power and insuring a leak proof seal for millions of operations and many years. The fuel filter used in these systems is very important and traps particles as small as 10 microns because the injector tips are so very small. The control of these injectors is very easily accomplished with a microcontroller and transistor switches in the same fashion as the Bosch controller would do but with far less inputs to vary the output. There need not be a vacuum sensor, cold start sensor, idle air bypass valve or solenoid. The air mass meter and the oxygen sensor could be retained to provide the most efficient and pollution free burner obtainable with todays technology.
Peter Heid</HTML>
Re: System Controls
Posted by: HOWARD RANDALL (IP Logged)
Date: August 05, 2002 10:05AM
<HTML>Peter, I like it! Are you, in fact, looking for a system to try? While I am not about to "part out" my Porsche, I could keep an eye out for you with my high performance auto mechanic friends.</HTML>
Re: System Controls
Posted by: Peter Heid (IP Logged)
Date: August 05, 2002 05:28PM
<HTML>Howard,
Thank you for the offer but at this time I was hoping to spark ideas in the minds of others. I would like to build a vehicle with this technology in the future, time and money are the only slow points. Where I live it would seem a dead vehicle in the yard is a status symbol especially if the front door step on the house is 2 feet down to the ground. 20 bucks and you can pretty much take everything but the chassis. In "Allen Town" you can trade a decent woman (has most of her teeth & only a couple kids) for a 4x4 truck. But seriously the parts are everywhere I look, teasing me. The Bosch LH jetronic injection was introduced in 1982 on CA volvos and the same parts have been in use ever since, now in the motronic injection system also.
The air flow meters are a very interesting on their own. Mounted between the air cleaner and the throttle housing, they have 5 wire connections, a ground, 12 volt power, output signal and 2 burn off wires. The sensor consists of a 0.07mm platnium wire and a thermistor. The wire is heated to about 180 degrees F. above ambient and as the increased air flow cools the wire, the meter increases the current to maintain the 180 degree temp differential. The current is measured and the result is sent out to the control unit as a voltage signal that varies from 0.25 to 4.75 volts. The measurement is relative and the housing could be cut apart and the sensor mounted in a larger air tube if needed. The burn off function is to remove any road grime or condensed intake fumes from the wire each time the engine is shut down. About 4 seconds after shutdown, the wire is heated red hot for 1 second to burn off any debris. A hand held air flow meter could be easily made from the meter by hooking a 0 to 5 volt meter to the output and remarking the scale on the meter face. The output also allows for easy intergration into the microcontroller world.
Peter Heid</HTML>
Thank you for the offer but at this time I was hoping to spark ideas in the minds of others. I would like to build a vehicle with this technology in the future, time and money are the only slow points. Where I live it would seem a dead vehicle in the yard is a status symbol especially if the front door step on the house is 2 feet down to the ground. 20 bucks and you can pretty much take everything but the chassis. In "Allen Town" you can trade a decent woman (has most of her teeth & only a couple kids) for a 4x4 truck. But seriously the parts are everywhere I look, teasing me. The Bosch LH jetronic injection was introduced in 1982 on CA volvos and the same parts have been in use ever since, now in the motronic injection system also.
The air flow meters are a very interesting on their own. Mounted between the air cleaner and the throttle housing, they have 5 wire connections, a ground, 12 volt power, output signal and 2 burn off wires. The sensor consists of a 0.07mm platnium wire and a thermistor. The wire is heated to about 180 degrees F. above ambient and as the increased air flow cools the wire, the meter increases the current to maintain the 180 degree temp differential. The current is measured and the result is sent out to the control unit as a voltage signal that varies from 0.25 to 4.75 volts. The measurement is relative and the housing could be cut apart and the sensor mounted in a larger air tube if needed. The burn off function is to remove any road grime or condensed intake fumes from the wire each time the engine is shut down. About 4 seconds after shutdown, the wire is heated red hot for 1 second to burn off any debris. A hand held air flow meter could be easily made from the meter by hooking a 0 to 5 volt meter to the output and remarking the scale on the meter face. The output also allows for easy intergration into the microcontroller world.
Peter Heid</HTML>
more Bosch
Posted by: Peter Heid (IP Logged)
Date: August 05, 2002 07:21PM
<HTML>The oxygen sensor or lambda sensor as Bosch calls it is a device that measures the oxygen content of gasses by producing a voltage signal corosponding to oxygen ratio. When running properly, the sensor will deliver a voltage from 0 to 0.9 volts over its full range. Most engine systems require the sensor to be delivering 0.4 to 0.5 volts when running with the proper air/fuel ratio. A hand held exhaust gas gauge could easily be made by hooking a 0.0 to 1.0 volt gauge to the leads of the sensor and inserting the sensor in the exhaust allowing no external air to give a false reading. The output voltage is appropate for the input of a microcontroller also.
Peter Heid</HTML>
Peter Heid</HTML>
Re: more Bosch
Posted by: George Nutz (IP Logged)
Date: August 05, 2002 08:47PM
<HTML>Peter,
Sounds like a good idea---as long as the sensor does not require a constant voltage supply. Do you know if it is battery voltage independent with its
0 to .9 volt output?? If so it could well control the air fuel ratio for a variable speed blower and fuel supply that would allow a greatly variable firing rate.
Much easier on the boiler than a totally on/off system that creates tube stresses from sudden expansion and contraction.
Best, George</HTML>
Sounds like a good idea---as long as the sensor does not require a constant voltage supply. Do you know if it is battery voltage independent with its
0 to .9 volt output?? If so it could well control the air fuel ratio for a variable speed blower and fuel supply that would allow a greatly variable firing rate.
Much easier on the boiler than a totally on/off system that creates tube stresses from sudden expansion and contraction.
Best, George</HTML>
Re: more Bosch
Posted by: Peter Heid (IP Logged)
Date: August 16, 2002 12:04AM
<HTML>George,
The oxygen sensors are available in a couple forms. The ones I am most familiar with are the single and 2 wire versions, which after 600 degrees F. they generate the signal directly by the movement of free oxygen ions through a membrane with no supply voltage required. The single wire uses the body of the device as a ground and the 2 wire provides a seperate ground lead. The 2 wire sensor is the most common because only a small signal is generated and and poor connection would give a false reading. Most vehicles run with the sensor in the 400 to 500 milivolt range or about mid scale when at the correct fuel air mixture. There are also and 3 wire varieties that I believe require a source voltage. New a 2 wire sensor might run $40.00 to $60.00 and a 3 wire is well over $100.00, but used off a running vehicle is just fine. The sensors can be ruined by an engine that has burnt a lot of oil or cheap silicone sealer fumes can coat the element and cause failure. They have been known to die from old age on ocassion but this is usually after 100,000 miles or more.
Peter Heid</HTML>
The oxygen sensors are available in a couple forms. The ones I am most familiar with are the single and 2 wire versions, which after 600 degrees F. they generate the signal directly by the movement of free oxygen ions through a membrane with no supply voltage required. The single wire uses the body of the device as a ground and the 2 wire provides a seperate ground lead. The 2 wire sensor is the most common because only a small signal is generated and and poor connection would give a false reading. Most vehicles run with the sensor in the 400 to 500 milivolt range or about mid scale when at the correct fuel air mixture. There are also and 3 wire varieties that I believe require a source voltage. New a 2 wire sensor might run $40.00 to $60.00 and a 3 wire is well over $100.00, but used off a running vehicle is just fine. The sensors can be ruined by an engine that has burnt a lot of oil or cheap silicone sealer fumes can coat the element and cause failure. They have been known to die from old age on ocassion but this is usually after 100,000 miles or more.
Peter Heid</HTML>
Re: System Controls
Posted by: Malcolm Tucker (IP Logged)
Date: August 18, 2002 02:34PM
<HTML>Jim,
Long time no chat, hope you are well. Reason for contact is that I have found a Bolsover steam engine. twin cylinder compound with piston valves.
I believe these were produced in WW11 as a replacement option for gas engined small British cars. I'm unable to find any literature on them, but am iterested to use it as intended ina car of the period. Can you help or point me in the right direction.
Kind regards,
Malcolm.</HTML>
Long time no chat, hope you are well. Reason for contact is that I have found a Bolsover steam engine. twin cylinder compound with piston valves.
I believe these were produced in WW11 as a replacement option for gas engined small British cars. I'm unable to find any literature on them, but am iterested to use it as intended ina car of the period. Can you help or point me in the right direction.
Kind regards,
Malcolm.</HTML>
Re: System Controls
Posted by: Terry Williams (IP Logged)
Date: August 18, 2002 03:34PM
<HTML>Have you checked with J. N. Walton at Light Steam Power?</HTML>
Re: System Controls
Posted by: Jim Crank (IP Logged)
Date: August 19, 2002 01:12PM
<HTML>Malcolm,
A voice out of the past for sure.
The Bolsover engine is, I think, the one that Light Steam Power was once offering plans for, and for all I know, still is. A nice little double acting compound with piston valves and a shifting eccentric for reverse and cutoff.
Suitable for a small car like an Austin 10.
Actually, if I recall the story correctly, Roy Anderson designed the engine decades ago and sent the plans in to LSP and they duplicated them and started selling them. May be another engine altogether; but the same type.
Try getting in touch with LSP and see if they still can offer information.
Jim</HTML>
A voice out of the past for sure.
The Bolsover engine is, I think, the one that Light Steam Power was once offering plans for, and for all I know, still is. A nice little double acting compound with piston valves and a shifting eccentric for reverse and cutoff.
Suitable for a small car like an Austin 10.
Actually, if I recall the story correctly, Roy Anderson designed the engine decades ago and sent the plans in to LSP and they duplicated them and started selling them. May be another engine altogether; but the same type.
Try getting in touch with LSP and see if they still can offer information.
Jim</HTML>
Re: System Controls
Posted by: Mark Stacey (IP Logged)
Date: August 19, 2002 06:20PM
<HTML>Hi the URL is
[www.lightsteampower.freeserve.co.uk]
The plan set No 10 is the small V twin compound engine plus associated controls and generator.
J N Walton used to sell a set of casting plus complete engines. I checked quite a few years ago and they are no longer avaliable either complete or as castings so you have a rare one.
Cheers
Mark Stacey</HTML>
[www.lightsteampower.freeserve.co.uk]
The plan set No 10 is the small V twin compound engine plus associated controls and generator.
J N Walton used to sell a set of casting plus complete engines. I checked quite a few years ago and they are no longer avaliable either complete or as castings so you have a rare one.
Cheers
Mark Stacey</HTML>
Re: System Controls
Posted by: Malcolm Tucker (IP Logged)
Date: August 20, 2002 01:40PM
<HTML>Jim,
Many thanks for the info on Bolsover.
If I find anything positive I'll let you know.
Kind regards,
Malcolm.</HTML>
Many thanks for the info on Bolsover.
If I find anything positive I'll let you know.
Kind regards,
Malcolm.</HTML>
Re: System Controls
Posted by: Malcolm Tucker (IP Logged)
Date: August 20, 2002 01:41PM
<HTML>No! But thanks for the lead.</HTML>
Re: System Controls
Posted by: Malcolm Tucker (IP Logged)
Date: August 20, 2002 01:43PM
<HTML>Thanks for information,
I'll let you know of any developments of note.</HTML>
I'll let you know of any developments of note.</HTML>
Re: System Controls
Posted by: Terry Williams (IP Logged)
Date: August 20, 2002 01:50PM
<HTML>Malcom, If this is the engine that Jim was referring to (the V twin Roy Anderson engine) I have a set of prints around here somewhere. If you need specifics about it let me know.</HTML>
Re: System Controls
Posted by: Malcolm Tucker (IP Logged)
Date: August 20, 2002 01:59PM
<HTML>Terry,
Thanks. I have to do more research. The engine is not yet mine. Owner keeps moving the goal posts! It's not for sale on open market tho'.
More later.
Malcolm</HTML>
Thanks. I have to do more research. The engine is not yet mine. Owner keeps moving the goal posts! It's not for sale on open market tho'.
More later.
Malcolm</HTML>
Re: System Controls
Posted by: Malcolm Tucker (IP Logged)
Date: September 11, 2002 01:21PM
<HTML>Jim,
Have now bought engine. Seems in very good condition now apart.
Thanx for your lead to LSP drawings. I have got a full set from them with much detail for whole system, materials etc. Now for the hard work!
For some reason I can't get your full E mail address, please let me know so I don't have to go through this chat room.
Many thanks to you other guys who helped me with getting these plans.
Much appreciated by this tyro steamer.
Malcolm.</HTML>
Have now bought engine. Seems in very good condition now apart.
Thanx for your lead to LSP drawings. I have got a full set from them with much detail for whole system, materials etc. Now for the hard work!
For some reason I can't get your full E mail address, please let me know so I don't have to go through this chat room.
Many thanks to you other guys who helped me with getting these plans.
Much appreciated by this tyro steamer.
Malcolm.</HTML>
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