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Stanley 20 hp boiler, retubing
Posted by: Dick Tombrink (IP Logged)
Date: January 01, 2002 07:00PM
<HTML>I am in the process of installing new steel, 16 gauge tubes (flues) in my Stanley boiler. I plan to roll (expand) and flare the top, and roll and seal weld (run a heli arc bead around the tube) on the bottom. Does any one have any comments on this approach? My thought is if I ever need to replace the tubes, the seal weld can be drilled out, without destroying the bottom tubesheet/head.</HTML>
Re: Stanley 20 hp boiler, retubing
Posted by: David K. Nergaard (IP Logged)
Date: January 01, 2002 09:39PM
<HTML>If you seal weld the tubes, do not expect to retube it again. The weld may be very hard to remove and some distortion of the tube sheet holes is inevitable. The Stanley factory stated in their dealer bulletins that they did not consider retubing a welded boiler practical.
If your car is non-condensing, or fitted with oil separators, seal welding is not needed.</HTML>
If your car is non-condensing, or fitted with oil separators, seal welding is not needed.</HTML>
Re: Stanley 20 hp boiler, retubing
Posted by: Dick Tombrink (IP Logged)
Date: January 01, 2002 11:14PM
<HTML>My car is a model 740B, condensing, and does not have oil separators. Is it possible to fit this car with oil separators? Where can I find info on an oil separator?</HTML>
Re: Stanley 20 hp boiler, retubing
Posted by: David K. Nergaard (IP Logged)
Date: January 02, 2002 11:09AM
<HTML>I fitted home made separators to my car some years ago. A paper I wrote on them is posted on the Steam Automobile Club of America web site under NorthEast; Papers.</HTML>
Re: Stanley 20 hp boiler, retubing
Posted by: Ron Parola (IP Logged)
Date: January 02, 2002 09:51PM
<HTML>I am using an oil separator on my 740. It lives under the rocker panel between the two running board mounts. Basically a rectangular box with three separating panels, one opening at the top, next at the bottom, etc. This areas are filled with stainless scrubing pads, and some expanded metal at the bottom, to keep the pads from sitting on the bottom, this is where the oil will settle out. I open the drains every run and it'll drip oil for days. Ron Parola</HTML>
Re: Stanley 20 hp boiler, retubing
Posted by: Christopher Roberts (IP Logged)
Date: January 03, 2002 10:52PM
<HTML> I have seen several boilers retubed. Also have seen some retubed from steel boulers to coper. However it is very hard to retube a boiler that has the steel tubes welded in the bottom to retube them and machine/ drill out the old tubes. Stanley tubed their boilers with steel tubes and welded the tubes on the bottom to keep the boilers fro leaking with oil that would come from the condenser into the water tank and then pumped into the boiler. Once you have retubed the boiler hydro test it to at least 750# 1 1/2 times the working pressure. You can also if the piano wire is removed, take a strait edge along side the boiler and see if there are any buldges in the shell. If there are then it is unadviseable to use the boiler for it suggests the boiler wall is thin. I hydro test my boiler in my 1922 once a year to make sure all is nice and tight.
CWR</HTML>
CWR</HTML>
Re: Stanley 20 hp boiler, retubing
Posted by: David K. Nergaard (IP Logged)
Date: January 04, 2002 11:30AM
<HTML>1 1/2 times working pressure is much higher than 750 psi. ASME code requires that "working pressure" be the pressure at which the safety valve blows, which is typically 700-750 psi. in a Stanley. Thus, the test pressure should be at least 1050 psi.
It is very important that the condition of the wire wrapping be known. Without the wire, the maximum safe pressure of a Stanley boiler is less than 250 psi.!</HTML>
It is very important that the condition of the wire wrapping be known. Without the wire, the maximum safe pressure of a Stanley boiler is less than 250 psi.!</HTML>
Re: Stanley 20 hp boiler, retubing
Posted by: Dick Tombrink (IP Logged)
Date: January 05, 2002 02:04AM
<HTML>Are there any guidelines on inspecting the condition of the wire wrapping on a Stanley boiler? I have my boiler out of the car. The wire wrapping looks good, no detrimental rusting or corrosion, or buldged areas. What other inspection technique can I use to be sure the wire wrap in in good shape. Also what should the wrap be coated with to perserve its integrity?</HTML>
Re: Stanley 20 hp boiler, retubing
Posted by: David K. Nergaard (IP Logged)
Date: January 05, 2002 11:24AM
<HTML>Generally, if the wire looks good, no signs of rust or motion at the ends, it probably is good. If it is kept dry so it will not rust, it will probably out last the rest of the boiler.
A test I use, which is admittedly not universally approved, is to use a test pressure high enough to be well above the yield strength of the shell alone. This forces the wire to take the load. If there is anything wrong with the wire, it will start to unwind and you will hear it moving. If so, you can immediately dump the pressure before the shell is damaged. This test has the advantage that one does not have to remove the insulation to test the wire, you should hear any thing happening through the covering. I have used 1500 psi. Of course, you should not expose the steam pressure gauge, steam automatic, safety valve or the "brass bottle" water level gauge to this pressure. Remove them or otherwise shut off their connections.</HTML>
A test I use, which is admittedly not universally approved, is to use a test pressure high enough to be well above the yield strength of the shell alone. This forces the wire to take the load. If there is anything wrong with the wire, it will start to unwind and you will hear it moving. If so, you can immediately dump the pressure before the shell is damaged. This test has the advantage that one does not have to remove the insulation to test the wire, you should hear any thing happening through the covering. I have used 1500 psi. Of course, you should not expose the steam pressure gauge, steam automatic, safety valve or the "brass bottle" water level gauge to this pressure. Remove them or otherwise shut off their connections.</HTML>
Re: Stanley 20 hp boiler, retubing
Posted by: Christopher W. Roberts (IP Logged)
Date: January 13, 2002 04:13PM
<HTML> On the Stanley, 500 # is normal working pressure. I run my 1922 at 550#. Stanley lit seys anything over 575 is for abuse not use. Therefore at 500 # Working Steam Pressure 1 1/2 times would be 750# Anything over 1000# you may end up collapsing a tube. Then you have the troubble of removeing it form the boiler. Sttel tubes are far stronger that copper, but alas most of the tubes in Stanley boilers are copper. Originally on the condensing cars the steel tubes were welded in the bottom and swedged at the top. This was done for leaking problems due to oil getting on the crown sheet and getting between the tube and the crown sheet and causing a leak. The oil problem was never solved by Stanley. Today there are several oil seperators developed with some good sucess.
CWR</HTML>
CWR</HTML>
Retubing of Surface Condenser
Posted by: FAISAL (IP Logged)
Date: April 15, 2006 12:33PM
<HTML>Could you please let me know if you can provide the retubing for our surface condenser as per below brief detail:
1. We have four Surface Condensers.
2. We would like to retube them during November 2006 Turn Around.
3. Size of Tube: 3/4' Dia X 12685 mm Length.
4. Duration of retubing: 8 Days only.
5. You have to provide four puller machines.
6. Max no. of tubes to be retubed is 400 tubes.
Could you please concider this issue as urgent and replay to me as soon as posible.
thanks
<a href="mailto:dicknsue@mcn.net?subject=Stanley 20 hp boiler, retubing">Dick Tombrink</a> wrote:
>
> I am in the process of installing new steel, 16 gauge
> tubes (flues) in my Stanley boiler. I plan to roll (expand)
> and flare the top, and roll and seal weld (run a heli arc
> bead around the tube) on the bottom. Does any one have any
> comments on this approach? My thought is if I ever need to
> replace the tubes, the seal weld can be drilled out, without
> destroying the bottom tubesheet/head.</HTML>
1. We have four Surface Condensers.
2. We would like to retube them during November 2006 Turn Around.
3. Size of Tube: 3/4' Dia X 12685 mm Length.
4. Duration of retubing: 8 Days only.
5. You have to provide four puller machines.
6. Max no. of tubes to be retubed is 400 tubes.
Could you please concider this issue as urgent and replay to me as soon as posible.
thanks
<a href="mailto:dicknsue@mcn.net?subject=Stanley 20 hp boiler, retubing">Dick Tombrink</a> wrote:
>
> I am in the process of installing new steel, 16 gauge
> tubes (flues) in my Stanley boiler. I plan to roll (expand)
> and flare the top, and roll and seal weld (run a heli arc
> bead around the tube) on the bottom. Does any one have any
> comments on this approach? My thought is if I ever need to
> replace the tubes, the seal weld can be drilled out, without
> destroying the bottom tubesheet/head.</HTML>
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