I pulled the running boards of my 1910 Stanley Model 60 today. I don't think they are original. They appear to be a single 3/4" softwood pine covered with a hard vinyl material and a light gage metal angle trim strip. Can anyone tell me what the original subtrate,covering and edge trim should be? Any pictures would be appreciated.
Paul Kik Sr

Not sure how relevant this is to a 1910 Stanley, but our 1914 Model 607 had grey linoleum on the floorboards (and I think running boards) with aluminium edge trimming. This is exactly as per the 1914 catalogue. I sourced replacement lino from

linoleum supplier Armstrong Flooring.
Their "Uni Walton" range comes in a variety of colours including a range of greys.
101-057 Twilight has proved the closest match to the remaining original lino on Stanley 7644.
The lino comes in 2m roll widths, length as required, and is not very expensive.
www.armstrong-flooring.co.uk
Customer Service Centre

Armstrong World Industries Ltd.
Fleck Way, Teesside Industrial Estate, Thornaby on Tees, Cleveland. TS17 9JT

Phone: 01642 768660 - Fax: 01642 768822
Email:- CUSamples@armstrong.com

The Stanleys used the Pyramid black rubber for 1909 - 1912 for both their floor boards and for their running boards. Correct pryamid black rubber is availabe from Restoration Supply Compay. Their web site is located at <www.RestorationStuff.com> The running board coverings were retained by black upholstery trim nails as show in my attached running board photo of an original 1910 model 70 running board. The unrestored original model 71 in the LA County museum has the same identical type applications. In 1912, the season catalog had this to say: "The running boards are metal bound." By 1913, the season catalog stated: "The running boards and also the front floor boards are covered with gray linoleum and bound by aluminum. The tonneau floor is coverd with a carpet mat." In 1914, Stanley continued with the same. It is our responsibility to restore these antiques back to as when they were sold new. Not for us to try to rewrite history. Safety improvements have been permissible. Enjoy the hobby.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/04/2012 07:12PM by SSsssteamer.

How do you remove the pyramids for the plain bit down the edge of the running board?

One suggestion - hot blade as used for recutting of truck tyre treads - with the right heat it is possible to very cleanly slice the rubber off with no smoke and no burning. Some tyre groovers have an adjustable blade but if not a blade can be made from a cut down strip from a hacksaw blade ground to about 0.2inch wide, sharpened and then bent (with heat) to fit the holder of the tyre groover. Practice first before screwing up your finished rubber covering!

Mike

Rolly did some running board mats recently for his EX. He said that he cleaned the excess pyramids off using his milling machine. They came out perfectly clean, I was impressed. I don't know how he held the rubber mat down, but I would use a light duty contact cement so that the mat would stay put and not wind up on the cutter while milling them off. Hopefully he will tell us his method?

The original EX running board I found at Louis Biondi’s was pyramid black and had the pyramids removed on the side edges but not the ends. Another one I found at Frank Cooks had no pyramids removed. Both appeared to be original. I removed the pyramids on all sides about a ½ border as I liked the look. It gives a nice finish to them. I also did this with the matt inside the car. The round head tacks were spaced about two inches apart. Restoration Supply Company has these also.
I laid the rubber out on a flat bench and laid a straight edge board over it with only the ½ inch exposed. I used a router to clean off the pyramids.
Rolly
[www.stanleysteamers.com]

Rolly

I found a photo
Rolly

Thanks to all the replys and pictures. I actually found a roll of pyramid rubber in my shop that I had bought from Restoration Supply. I have a CNC router at work and I believe that we can just vacuumn the rubber down to the table and use a face cutter to cut the points down a bit.
The pictures are very helpful.
I just pulled the boiler and burner out today. The boiler support hoop looks to be original and it appears bolts in the frame rails are original. When I measured the angle clips on the hoop, the rear clip is 1/2" lower than the front. The hoop is installed on an angle, ie; not in plane with the top of the side rails. Is this correct?

The boiler should be mounted in the loaded car, curb side, plumb level with the ground. Things that could make the rear clips lower that the front clips would be: Without the boiler weight in place, the front of the car now stands taller than before. Wood frame sagging in the middle of car, giving the rear clips a lower measurement. If it was corrrect before, then there would be no reason to change it.