I am working out pulling the engine out of my model 60. I have everything disconnected except the main center engine support bolt. Since the engine is mounted with 10 degree or so angle up,the main motor mount hanger strap will not allow me to move the engine forward. I removed the cover plate between the two cylinders to determine if there is a lower bolt so I could remove the strap. The area is packed with refactory material( see attached picture).

1. If I remove the refactory will I be able to unbolt the hanger strap?

2. Is there any special technique to moving the engine forward and separating
it from the rear axle?

Paul Kik Sr

Usually soft insulation under the covers,,,
The 2 nuts on the top are like the nuts on the bottom,,,not up tight,,gotta move,,
Just dig til ya find the nuts,,,if its dusty,,,spray bottl of water to keep dust down,,,
do we use the a word here????,,Ben

Ben,
I'll do some digging. The material is very hard...like plaster. Was this packed at the factory? Or was it added at a later date to insulate the cylinder wall?
Thanks for the input.
PAUL

Asbestos is gray white,,,and what they probably used,,
Consistancy of 3 day old rye bread,,
If its harder it could be furnace cement,,,or a combination of both,,
Hack and chizzel it out,,,be careful of the copper,,,,thats the softest,,wet it just in case its A,,,,keep dust down,,,Youll probably find the copper case full of same,,,
Yank pull,,tuggg,,grunt,,Its still NOT rocket science,,
Be careful,,don't hurt yourself,,,or chip a tooth,,,HAAHA,,,Ben

Well after carefully cleaning the "A" out of the front housing,I concluded that those two nuts most likely have never been off in the last 100 years. Krol oil and breaker bar would not due the trick. So I used a motorcycle jack and was able to lower the engine enough to clear the cross member. The engine was free and there was plenty of old steam oil in the engine compartment. Everything turns and looks to be in good shape.
Found the cars serial number stamped on the flange of one of the copper covers. A couple of hours, a couple cigars, a quart of degreaser and I have a good start. A lot more fun than watching football!
Thanks for the assistance
Paul

Fired the Stanley up on the bench with compressed air. This engine has not been run since the early 50's. A short video clip is on the You Tube link below

[www.youtube.com]

Looks in good external condition, interesting contrast with the engine from our car when first removed - see [flic.kr]

A word of warning - on stripdown our engine was found to have a cracked wrist pin, just as well she last ran about 1952!

In the short video of your engine running on compressed air, I don't hear a distinctive exhaust chuff, just a modulated hiss.

This is usually indicitive of either the valves and or piston leaking very badly.

After sitting around that long, the piston rings are probably stuck in their slots in the piston, letting whatever pressure past that wants past.

You may want to take off a cylinder head and the steam chest cover to see what going on inside there.

Caleb Ramsby

No bark in the exhaust because his hook up wasn't locked. The hook up lever was drifting back and forth depending on the load. The rings could still be stuck. The rings will come un-stuck once steam hit them. With the engine on the bench, now is the best time to see what all there is that needs tending to. First thing to do is to replace the 7/16" screw in wrist pins, with 1/2" floating wrist pins which will be jam nutted and cotter pinned. If you plan on doing serious touring with your 10 hp type 6 engine, Install a Howard Johnson engine kit. It has everything that you need to make your 10 hp engine bullet proof. It is well worth his price.

After reading the above replys, I clamped the hook up lever in the locked position. There was some change in the exhaust sound. I proceeded to remove the copper case covers. The insulations was very hard but with some patience and some prying they were removed undamaged. After turning the engine assembly over,I was reminded that I had removed the drip valve from the steam chest cover. I will finish the cleaning and reconnect the air and close off the drip valve opening and see what difference it makes.
Regardless of the sound, I think a teardown and inspection is in order. The suggestion of the Howard Johnson engine kit is probably in the plan. Nothing would more spoil a tour more than a major engine component failure.
Paul