I need to replace the front axle truss on my 1910 Stanley. It appears that the ends are brazed to the spindles. Are they brazed? If so, is heating them up the best method to remove. Also, what type of steel is best to use for making a new truss?
Paul

Dear Paul
When I built my front axle for my 1906 I had the use of an original one in very deplorable condition.
The Truss rod was pinned through the casting. I’m not sure if they changed it on the later cars but I would sand blast around the joint and see what shows up. If it’s brazed you should see some color difference, and if it’s pinned the pin will show up.
Rolly

[www.stanleysteamers.com]

Rolly
It's both pinned and brazed. Both ends of the truss have been replaced and the brazing rod has flowed around the pin. I guess my only choice is to drill out the pin, then heat it and pull the truss rod out. I have read somewhere than CRS is not the best choice to use as a replacement. Any suggestion on a better steel?
Paul

Here is my suggestion to your fix. Since the old truss rod is already properly anchored in the front axle, purchase some 4130 or 4140 round stock of the correct diameter to replace the old truss rod material. Cut of the old truss rod with in about a couple of inches or so of the old truss rod stubs sticking out of the axle ends. Build the new truss rod to match the one that you are replacing, even to the cut off length of the old one that was removed. Grind the rod ends at a nice angle to get a good weld. Mig weld the new truss rod into place with plenty of extra weld. Grind and file off the extra weld to give a perfect match to the old truss rod ends. It will be strong and it will be perfect. The job will take less time and the original brazing will be undisturbed. 4130 or 4140 is much stronger than mild steel and it welds nicely.

The front axle of my Model H when I first got it had a tie bar made of very hard steel. The tensioning pillars were welded to the bar and it was so brittle in that area that it snapped in my hands - this was not an original Stanley component! If in doubt try a file on the welded area - if it won't touch it then it has gone brittle.

I suggest doing a test piece first to make sure that the steel being used (the new piece and the original rod on the axle) is not one which goes hard on welding - sacrifice a bit of the old rod and try welding it to the new steel.

Rolly can probably tell us what he did on the EX.

Mike

Mike, What you have described has been my experience with "drill Rod". It nicely machines, it is pretty to look at, but when heated by welding on it, it becomes brittle like glass. The heat disturbs its temper. Tool steels, like the 4130 or the 4140 are very tough and they work well with welding. After welding, a fast cooling with water can also make them brittle. A slow air cool will keep them tough and bendable. The original metal left in the axle ends can be annealed to make them soft, bendable, and usable again. Rolly has the final say on metallurgy. He knows it better than I do.

A closer look at the truss rod shows the ends that insert into the casting is 3/8" diameter. The truss rod is 7/16" dia. except for 3" on each end being 3/8". it appears that the 3/8" stub was welded to the 7/16" stock since the casting won't allow for 7/16" stock to insert into the castings. My question is... were the original truss rods 3/8" and what I have here is an attempt to beef up the front axle?

Correct, someone has beefed up the material. Make your new truss rod the same diameter as the original 3/8" stock that was used.

I think I would put the torch to the existing rod in the forging, it’s not a casting, and when soft knock the pin out and pull the rod out. The new rod I would just use a new tapered pin.
For steel rod I like 4340 it runs 68,500 T but I’ll bet cold rolled steel rod or 1018 is stronger than the original.
Rolly