I am preparing my hubs to send to Bill Calimer to install in new wheels.
The rear hubs appear to need a 2.75 O.D. sleeve to support the spokes. See my crummy sketch, and photos.

Referencing Rolly's EX drawings, also attached.
I think the spokes will be 1.5 inch thick
Is the spacer shouldered ,and actually a larger diameter in the center, where the spokes fit?...Any sketches or photos out there?

The length of your spacer is in direct relation to how thick your spokes are. You will have to know how thick your spokes will be. Measure some one else's spokes first and then make a good sketch of them. Better yet is to send Calmer's an old spoke to use as a pattern. Your spokes have a profile that is correct to your H-5 and not anywhere like a model T Ford or other such. Factor in the spacer recesses to determine the spacer length. Allowance for wood compression has to be taken in to account for the length of your spacer. You never want to bottom out on your spacer while tightening up your hub bolts. To keep the spokes tight, you always want to bottom out on your spokes first. I can send you the spoke measurements off of the spokes on our 1909 R if it would help. I am not going to take apart a wheel to get the measurements though. Our model R is still wearing the original Stanley factory wheels off of Mike Simpson's model R, so our R has its correct 29" clincher rims/wheels.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/09/2013 09:55PM by SSsssteamer.

How did Mike decide to replace the wheels on hhis R?

Mike's original wheels and rims on his R were loose and in need of cosmetic restoration. Rather than having his R laid up for a spell while his wheels were being restored, he bought all new wheels and rims. When the new ones were finally painted, it was just a quick switch without much down time for his R. When I restored his old set of wheels and rims, they took quite a bit of work to get them perfect again. The West system epoxy wood restorer that I used made the old wheels better than new. I really believe that he should have restored his old wheels and rims instead of buying the new set for his original model R.

I emailed Bill Calimer, he confirmed the spokes will be 1.375 thick.
I will plan the sleeve such that it is about .05 short, this should give me good compression between hub and brake drum.
I will shrink fit one end only,( thinking the drum end )and a size for size fit on the other end so there is no chance of it wobbling or wearing later.
I will make the sleeve the same dia. as the front sleeve, 2.75 od.
Since these are new wheels, I will epoxy them before painting them.
Tom

Dear Tom
Are you going to send the hubs and drum to Bill Calimer. I would leave 0.125 to 01875 for future tightening. I was in one wheel shop and watched a wheel made from start to finish. Can’t remember what shop. They turned the sleeve shorter to suite.
The only thing I did not like was that the final assembly of the hub’s was not done on and axle for aliment. They assemble the spokes and Fellow and press on the rim, then it’s mounted on a large four foot three jaw chuck and the hole is bored in the center to fit the sleeve, but they don’t turn the face of where the hub face sits on the spokes.
I socked all my wood with an epoxy made for marine rot repair. It has a five hour cure time and you keep applying till the wood will not take any more. New wood may not take much.
I also applied a hard wax to the inside face of the hub plates, and applied a bedding epoxy to the area of the wood where the plated would press to the spokes to fill all void spaces.
Rolly

OK, I can leave more space.
I think the CPES product is about $60 for 2 quarts...that will be a good starter volume., I think the slow cure would be best.

Anybody have any 33 x 4 junk tires I can buy to use while I build this car...it might be a while,since I still work full time.I hate to buy new tires and have them sit around for a long time ...

Tom