HI,
I have started to look for wheel bearings, and would appreciate if someone has the numbers they could share, cup and cone.
This is for a 5-3/8" BC hub.
They are clearly inch series, I am concerned about how narrow the outer cup will be, and I suspect there will be a washer between the nut and the cone.
I also suspect there is a seal, could use some insight as well.
That item is not in my drawing, this is what I have....I will try to cross these dimensions to Timken bearings
TOM



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/05/2013 09:06PM by laheyth.

Long time since I did that but I was able to use Timken type taper roller bearings although I don't recall the size. It may be that I made the hubs to fit the bearings! They are hugely oversize in term of load rating but need to be so as to fit the hub.

Three points:-

You need to fit a counterbored washer behind the back race as it will not go snugly up to the essential radius of the spindle where it joins the axle.

Also although many axles use taper rollers whose clearance is set by the fit of the stub axle end nut, it is far better to put a tapered spacer tube between the inner races of both bearings and adjust the length of this to get the required clearance or preload (whatever the bearing manufacturer recommends). That way the stub axle end nut can be properly tightened and split pinned. The ultimate which was done by WO Bentley on his cars of the 1920's, was to add a large diameter washer behind the stub axle nut, keyed to the spindle and with an outside diameter sufficient to prevent the wheel coming off in the event of a bearing collapse. The back face of this washer is machined so as to nip the inner race, but clear the outer. I've done this on all the cars I have restored - never had a bearing collapse though. If the bearing are assembled without this spacer it is usual for one of the stub axle nuts to be left hand threaded so that a seized bearing, rotating on the spindle, tends to tighten rather than unscrew the spindle nut. In this case it is vital that the washer behind the hub nut be keyed to the spindle (often by means of a flat on the spindle) so that it can't rotate.

You can fit a modern rubber lip seal at the back of the hub, retaining it with a cover which is fixed to the hub by small screws - on mine one of these covers was in fact the drive gear for the speedometer cable. The outer bearing does not need a seal because it is inside the bronze cap.

Mike



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/06/2013 10:25AM by mike clark.

Your dimensions look larger than mine. But I made new hubs and spindles on my EX and used tapered rollers with a seal on the back edge of the spindle.
Rolly

[www.stanleysteamers.com]

[www.stanleysteamers.com]

I did my front wheel bearings on my Stanleys just like Rolly did. Between the back bearing cone and spindle radius, I made a spacing washer like Mike had described, but I used the original felt type seal in it just like the Stanleys originally used. I didn't need to use any screws to retain the seal like Mike did, and I didn't use a sleeve between the Timken cone bearings so that they could be drawn up on. Without the sleeve between the cone bearings, as their wear occurs, and the bearings became well seated, the spindle nut can still be used to adjust the bearings without having to machine down a spacing sleeve. As Rolly has shown, there still is a larger sleeve still used between the inner and outer hub halves to maintain alignment of the hub halves. That spacer has little to do with any bearing adjustment. As with modern cars, I used right hand threads on both spindle nuts. My large flat washer located under the spindle nut is tabbed into a keyway machined into the spindle threads, just as what would be found on a modern car's spindle. When making Stanley parts, it is handy to have an original Stanley to look at so that you "don't have to reinvent the wheel".