Well the bug bit hard and with the wife's approval, We bought another Stanley. I just got home from the 1900 mile trip to pick up the car and it is an excellently untouched example of a 735B. I will certainly add more as the work begins/progresses on this car. I don't currently plan to do a full restoration, but rather a mechanical restoration, good cleaning and preservation as needing/possible. It will need a top at some point, but many mechanicals to do first. Very excited about this car!

I don't have an exact history from the start, but this car was in the Fuchs family outside St. Louis, MO for many many years. The last transfer was from George Fuchs Sr to his son George Fuchs Jr in 1957. It was owned by Sr for "A long time" prior to that. In the 20's or 30's Sr was a Willy's dealer and always a car guy. I can only guess that this car might have come to him as a trade in on a another car, but this is unconfirmed. very interesting car and not currently on the registry. It's serial is 19320.

Let the fun begin! First thing first, tire change. Included were 5 new (never unwrapped and nicely supple) BF Goodrich 35x5 tires. Tubes and flaps are on the way.

Does anyone know the rim manufacture for these? It's a 3 piece rim with 2 identical solid bead sections and a collapsible center ring section. Universal Tire shows pictures here:

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_______________________________________________
Jared Schoenly

1919 Stanley 735B Original Car
1922 Stanley Sedan Project
1930 Pontiac Coupe
1933 Ford Stake Body
Whatever else I can get into trouble with....

Exceedingly cool. There aren't may things as exciting as bringing home a factory Stanley that's been hidden for a half century. Especially one this untouched. There's something extra interesting about knowing that the odds are high that almost all of the parts & surfaces on this car came out of the Hunt Street plant on the same day, bolted into the same car.

Kelly

Tubes and flaps should be arriving this week. I'll have a little cleaning and paint work on the rims before mounting. There are some shots in the link of the rims and some other areas of the car. The hood hinge is pretty stuck so I removed it to work on. The bonnet came off the boiler easily so I wanted to inspect a little there.

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The rims so far are a pleasure to work on. I spent all of about 30 minutes to de-mount the wheels on the car and had all 5 rock hard old tires off the rims. After you un-hinge the center sections lock, it pulled right out. Abut half the bead sections pretty much fell off the tires and the other came right off with a few light blows from a rubber mallet.

It seams one, Maybe two of the rims have a hole for a bolt to securely lock the hinged section of the center of the rim. The only one with a bolt was on the rear passenger side of the car. I think it re-mounting the wheels, I'll make sure the spare is one with the bolt... Just in case. On the fellows, the lock could never come apart, but the spare is another story.

Has anyone worked with these rims much? They are actually designed to work with either clincher or straight bead tires. All the rims on removal have a cloth/rubber (and hard) ring that is in the clincher groove to fill the space. There was a post on Universal Tire about a set of these where they mounted straight bead tires without that groove filled. I think it would be smart to remove the filler (some are partly loose) to clean the rust and paint the rims. I'm not sure if they'll go back in well, but they probably would. Seems better for the tires to fill this space for the new non-clincher tires.

The boiler appears to be a re-tubed unit. There are some pretty good encrustations on 2 tubes on the lower side I need to clean off. Overall it looks pretty good so far, but I'll be removing it to inspect the wire and get a general condition as best I can. Has anyone ever identified boilers by numbers or been able to trace any production on them? There is 19114 stamped in the top sheet and some other numbers I can get off the bottom sheet. Just curious...

What type of jack would have come with or been recommended for this car? Under the front floor boards there is a jack and a handle (i believe for it). It has a fold down part to hook on something to jack on. The original suction line is in the car, still stored in it's running board tube. I don't see any sign of a feed water heater. I also don't see any sign of an apple voltage regulator on the inner firewall and the regulator on the hood side seems like it's been there a LONG time. Lots more to document and many things to work on!

That's all for now!

I have never seen an original Stanley jack, lots to choose from out there. hat is a cool car, what a find! A little tender loving care and it will be running again. Not many original cars out there. Are you planning on keeping it original? It is such an impressive car as is it would make car to keep it as is.

Chris,

I would say you are spot on that it's not a "Stanley" jack, but it was interesting when I saw it under the boards. There are some interesting brackets there which makes me wonder what jack or tools might have been there.

I recall seeing spring clips for the pump handles, but never remembered seeing wooden brackets that the handle sits in. There is a flat spring vertically that keeps it in the wood saddles. Either way, that is a neat feature.

The floor boards are in great shape as well and there is a nice little spring loaded flap to get a finger hold to lift the first board. The pump pit covers are there and there is also a flat spring that holds them in place. I'll be slowly adding more and more pictures to this Flickr Album as I document areas of the car.

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As far as this cars destiny, in my hands, it won't get "restored". I'm planning on cleaning and keeping as much original as possible while bringing it back to life mechanically. I'm a sucker for the 95 year old patina and will only do whats needed to preserve and enjoy!

Jared

No new picture updates, but I have been working on the wheels a little. After a nice day at Hershey on Wednesday, I spent a good number of hours chiseling out the stubborn rubber bead filler on the last 3 bead sections. I then took to the needle scaler to knock out all the rust and crust from the sections. They had some pretty good growths but all measure nice and solid yet.

These rims (Stanweld) are designed for either clincher or Straight Bead tires. There were straights on it and new ones going on, but the filler had to be removed to clean the rust and is no usable by any means. After some thought and consensus from others, I'll be filling the groove with a smooth braid black nylon rope. It seems 5/8" fills it in nice and will conform to give about the same level of fill as the old molded in place looking rubber/fabric fill. I have a little wire brushing to do yet, then they'll get a few coats of satin black rust encapsulator paint before the spiffy new Goodrich Tires go on. I hope to get it back on tires in the next 2-3 weeks, but we'll see as we have a busy auction schedule as well....

I sprayed up some of the fittings and hopefully I'll also start getting some of the connections off in preparation for a check over of the boiler. It is a re-tubed original steel tube boiler, now having copper tubes. However there are no ferrules in it. The jacket pretty much requires the boiler be removed to get at the wire, so I'll probably just pull the boiler to check it over good, see what the wire is like, and give it a hydro. If it is tight at a modest pressure, I may ferrule it and give it a try, time will tell.


Thats all for now!

Thank you for telling us about your Stanley.

I had a similar experience with the Stanweld rims. I thought it would be a nice
Saturday afternoon job to replace tires and tubes. It took 4 months including about 6 bags of sand.

I got 1/2 inch O ring cord stock from the local seals and O rings distributor.
The rust problems with the rims are partly caused by the rope filler getting soaked up with water and almost never drying out.

You pictures are appreciated and hope you can show us more of the original details - not often seen today.
John

John,

Thanks for the info and experience on the rims! The original filler seemed to be a rubber product, obviously not a shape available. I had some worries about the water retention of a rope, but I also and curious how the o-ring cord filled the space? The rope seems like it should work well on these since it conforms well.

I'll being give the rims a good coat of paint very soon in prep for remounting.

Did your rims have a flat head 1/4-20 bolt to lock the rim when assembled? Mine are hit or miss with I think 3 of the 5 having the bolt. I will likely drill and tap the other 2 as it seems smart to have a bolted connection once the over-center lock is in place. Especially on the spare tire.

Happy to hear anyone else's experience with these rims. not trying to over think them, but something to talk about while I'm finishing the clean up work. I have 4 of the 5 about 95% wirebrushed and cleaned for paint. Hopefully clean the last one and do the final prep in the next few days and start painting. Can't wait to get it back on tires!

You can get O- ring cord stock from McMaster-Carr [www.mcmaster.com] in some material up to one inch OD.
I have used Buna-N, you can get it in different hardness.

Rolly

Because of holding moisture, I think that rope would be the last thing that I would use for filling in the clincher side ring cavity. If the O ring rubber was installed using a silicone caulking, then there wouldn't be anywhere for moisture to collect. Remember to be very clean while using the silicone caulking because it doesn't like to be painted over.

Rolly,

Have you used the buna n cord in a rim situation like this? I bought some poly smooth braid rope already that I was going to use, but if the rubber would be more preferred I may get some to try. It's a lot more expensive than the rope as well.

_______________________________________________
Jared Schoenly

1919 Stanley 735B Original Car
1922 Stanley Sedan Project
1930 Pontiac Coupe
1933 Ford Stake Body
Whatever else I can get into trouble with....

Well, it certainly does make sense. The original rubber filler certainly caused enough rust as well. I thought I was all ready after the paint but I'll have to think about this a little more. A few of us were discussing rope vs a silicone caulk filling. My only concern is that you need the tire and it's pressure to form the material into the groove and does it matter caulking that all to the tire and rim? I don't plan on lots of tire changes, but just trying to do it right the first time and not cause any issue later.

Looks like I'll be ordering up a few samples of o-ring cord to try out on the grooves...

_______________________________________________
Jared Schoenly

1919 Stanley 735B Original Car
1922 Stanley Sedan Project
1930 Pontiac Coupe
1933 Ford Stake Body
Whatever else I can get into trouble with....

No Jared
I never had the wheels apart on my 1920. and until you brought up the problem I was not aware of it.

Rolly

Thanks all for the replies. I'm interested to hear if John used any caulk in the installation. I ordered up 2 short lengths to make sure if I should be using 1/2" or 5/8" in the soft durameter (the 5/8" rope seemed to fit well, 1/2" would be a little small). It is more expensive, but I don't like the idea of the rope holding moisture either. I think with or without the caulk, the rubber should still be a better long term solution. I'll try out the sizes and try to report back with some pictures when it comes in.

Does anyone know if boilers were serialized to the cars when originally installed? My car (19320) has on the boiler 19114 and it's a re-tubed original boiler. All for curiosity. Mike May thought they may have been and it was interesting to see a number so much like a Stanley serial on it, but not matching. Once I get the tires back on the car, I'll be evaluating (likely including removing) the boiler. If the wire is good and it's tight, I may add ferrules and try it. Time will tell.

_______________________________________________
Jared Schoenly

1919 Stanley 735B Original Car
1922 Stanley Sedan Project
1930 Pontiac Coupe
1933 Ford Stake Body
Whatever else I can get into trouble with....

Fred Marriott kept a boiler warranty record for every Stanley sold while in his capacity. The record of chassis serial numbers is what he used to tracked the boilers by. The water tanks also often had the chassis serial number marked on them with some sort of grease pencil. It makes sense that the boiler could have had the chassis number on it too. The motor serial numbers did not match the chassis serial numbers. Regarding the side rings for a filler: In installing top irons on the old cars, I no longer put a wood plug into them like they once were because of the moisture problem. Instead I put a small diameter re-bar in them and fill them up with fiberglass epoxy resin and hardener to a level where I can still put the top bow into the socket. No more problems with the wood holding the moisture and rusting out the top socket. The same could be done with the clincher side rings. Run some heavy wire around clincher cavity and pour it level with an epoxy resin and hardener.

Who keeps the records from Fred Marriott now? Are they accessible?

I got the O-Ring stock in to check it out. The 5/8" was too big for sure, but I wanted to check. The rope you see is 5/8" and fills/conforms nicely, but I'm sharing others opinions that the rubber will be a better choice. It doesn't fill the space as completely, but I think it's a better choice. I'll hopefully start painting soon if the weather isn't too damp and I don't currently plan on caulking the rubber into the bead, but just placing it in as they are assembled. I think with the pressure over time it will fill in pretty good and grip the tire's bead well.

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Jared,
Congratulations on your car and your desire to preserve it.

I've been away from the Phorum for a long time and a lot has gone on, your project being one. I have car serial 19114 so my eyes popped out when I saw your boiler serial.
Our car was fitted with a boiler serial 20XXX which made me believe that it was a '20 before I found a serial number on the frame horn. It also has 19114 stamped in the back of the dash board. The chassis tag was missing but with the help of some folks it is back with the car too. Now a boiler has been accounted for. Can it get any better than this?
I suspect that the boilers on the condensing cars had problems with the steel tubes and as a result there was a lot of change outs. I would tend to believe that a re-tubed boiler would be placed back in a car with out regard to the serial number. Records were kept however. Copies of the boiler records are available through the Stanley Museum (that is where I got mine). I am away from them at the moment and am anxious to check them out when I return.
I will let you know what I find...

I believe we have Fred Marriott to thank for a lot of cars that he continued to work on and keep operable. Thank You Mr. (Fred) Marriott for your work.

Larry

Hey Larry,

That would be most interesting to know if you have the boiler records. I'd love know how detailed the records are. I'll be removing the boiler from service... If you have any interest in it, let me know!

My progress has still been slow as I have been busy with auctions and in the process of switching out a lot of machines in the shop. I now have all the moves done and I'm working on some cleanup, reassembly, and wiring. I hope to really start back on 19320 very soon and also hopeful for some warming weather. Another few inches last night with a bunch of ice!

Jared

Well, the temps broke a little this week and after watching a friend of mine make awesome progress on his International Scout Project, I needed to get a kickstart on the car again. Opened up shop for me and 2 friends last night and we tore into the car. First I lifted off the condensor and then the old boiler (shame to see them go...). We dropped the water tank and the fuel tank and planned a little for the next steps. The engine seems to have not been touched much as it has all the covers on it including the cover over the packings and the cover on the engine hanger. Wanting to certainly be safe over sorry, we'll be pulling the engine to check over the bearings, clearances, valves, etc, etc. I think I'll be doing a good cleanup on the rear but not digging too far into it assuming the bearings still feel the same after the engine is out. Inspection will tell.

The water tank is a grimy mess, but in pretty good shape is seems. I was shock after pulling out the gauge to see that it still functions correctly, albeit with a good amount of oil grime to be cleaned off to free it up properly.

The fuel tank had some of the most rancid fuel in it that I've encountered. Does kero go bad similar to gas? I'm used to it still being a decent resemblance to kerosene when old, but this was more on the gasoline old fuel side of the nasty scale. It did however flow out of the tank quite well and didn't bring with it much of any sediment and junk. AND the tank wasn't leaking particularly so we'll see how it cleans out.

What are users favorite cleaning methods? I'm done a lot of the different methods from hot tanks to hands full of hardware dumping in the tank to knock things loose. Not that the fuel tank's paint is spectacular, but I'm trying to preserve the 1919 patina of the car for now so I'd rather not hot tank it. Any suggestions are welcome and I'll hopefully get a better inspection look in the next few days.

There appears to be a loos seam or partially loose on the top of the water tank. Is it advisable to remove the top sheet to clean everything good and re-solder or is that a disaster waiting to happen trying to get good joints?

Lots to do, but happy to get dirty and make progress last night!

Thanks for the picture of your water tank. I've just pulled mine out to fix some dodgy soldering and nasty epoxy metal attempts at fixing leaks. The tank appears the same as your just a bit more battered.
Cheers
Mark

Still VERY slow progress here, but I'm happy to report I have the windshield bar back from the welder. They were able to reattach the roughly 1/3rd that was broken off to the 1/3rd that was part of the bar, and filled in the missing area. Seems like the weld took pretty well and was a nice job. There is a decent bit to remove from the inner hole and I'll have to make a custom tapered reamer to reshape the hole for the windshield upright, but the welding had to start the process. I'm hoping this will kick the project in the pants a little to get the progress started! This piece had me a little worried getting back in shape and the car ain't much without a windshield! I'll post some pictures once it's refitted.

The reamer may center up only on the weld interfering with the hole and the hole's opposite side. The net result would be a hole that is off center. A carbide bit used in a Dremel grinder may be the best way clean up the hole and to still keep the hole centers accurate. Another sure way to cut out the extra weld crowding the hole is to set the windshield frame up in a milling machine. The milling cutter will plunge cut the hole straight again.

The weather is nice,,The ice on the lake went out yesterday
Remember this is SOUTHERN Maine,,Cheers,,Ben

The reamer or any cutter would certainly not cut straight. This will be fixtured up in the mill to get an accurate (and aligned to the other side) center hole first. Then (unless a better plan presents itself) I planned to fixture a good close fitting mandrel in the center hole with the reamer riding over that for alignment. Somewhat like a counterbore, but with the pilot being fixed in the hole rather than on the end of the cutter. We'll see how it goes and I'll try to take pictures. Taking pictures during tasks is something I'm honestly quite bad at and would like to work on.... Thanks for the input!

Jared
The first thing I would do is anneal the area of the weld.
Sorry we missed each other at York.
Rolly

Hey Rolly,

Me too. I love the show but my head is spinning so fast all weekend, it's a wonder I don't take off. Glad you could make it at least, sorry I didn't get to chat!

Anneal the aluminum? How would you got about that (other than a commercial heat treat site)? I've filed and sanded a good amount of the outside excess off at the moment, but I need to setup the mill for the next work.

Jared

My error I did not know we were talking aluminum.
But if the need a raise’s I can tell you how to anneal aluminum. Aluminum work hardens just like any non-ferrous metal.
Rolly

A friend used to use a sharpie marker to mark aluminum in the area needing annealed and watch for a color change as heated. Haven't done it in a while. Curious as to your process as that's a little vague...

Taking my time on this bar as I want to make sure I get it fixtured up right. Probably be a week or two till I really get it cut right.

Building the Hull of my 35 foot Aluminum steam launch I learned a lot of technique’s
Working with aluminum. You can use heat sticks but the simplest way is to fog the area with acetylene soot then heat till the soot disappears. Just the right temperature.
Rolly
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Had a great evening last night with some much needed progress. Between Sunday and last night, I mounted up all the tires and have the car back rolling again. This will be OH so helpful to really get the project moving along.

Next up will be some much needed cleaning of the car and shop, placing the boiler for fit up piping work and Burner attachment, etc. Lots to do, but getting the ball rolling!

Like... :)

I haven't been posting, but I have been getting a little more work done. The new boiler is in the frame to mock up the burner attachments and superheater. When I removed the water tank, there was a good 8-10 gallons of water in it so I figured the pumps would certainly need a good servicing. Off came the pump box so I can really get a good cleaning and adjustment in on it. The air valves are in good shape, I was going to remove that tank and valves to clean up, but discovered they are still holding 40 lbs of air for probably 50 years! The oil tank also is better than 3/4 full of some of the blackest oil I've seen....

Now that pretty much all the big "taking apart or off" is accomplished on the car, I'm trying to work through things that need to be repaired and get things going back together. First order of business - WINDSCREEN, followed by the Dash. The car sure looks funny with that off. I had it welded up and it was a nice job. There was A LOT of extra metal in the bore however and it would have been a miserable time with a burr cutting it all out, so onto the mill I went!

I aligned the bore as well as possible, then plunged a 3/4" end mill carefully thru to remove the majority of the material. As I was scratching my head trying to fulfill my perfectionism and work smart rather than filing out the taper, I figured I would cut it. Having not been able to locate a boring bar for the boring head for a different recent project I had used an end mills cutting edge. Then I thought - BALL MILL! So I mounted up a 3/4" ball mill in the boring head. Measuring the taper on the fittings, it was 20 degrees. A little trig will tell you that the diameter changed ~0.009" for every 0.025" depth. I carefully roughed away bulk stock till I was getting close to the original taper, jogging x & y as needed. Got it good and close, just touching old surfaces by the welds. Rough cut downward with 0.036" diameters and 0.1" depth cuts. Then opened up about .015 on the diameter and cut from the bottom up. It cleaned up very nicely, about 3/4 or more of the way around the original taper! Good enough for this! With the 3/8" radius on the cutter (the one edge of the end mill aligned to cut), the scallops on the cut are nearly undetectable - Probably around or less that 0.001".

So about an hour of careful work eliminated A LOT of burring, filing, and trial fitting. I ran out of time and still need to cut the taper on the bottom side, but I'm better than halfway back to having the windscreen on the car. There may be some alignment concern once bolted in place on the body, but I'll either shim the bar to the cowl or make offset taper bushings for the uprights if it's really that bad. I don't expect it to be though.

Now this is relaxing and fulfilling work. Hopefully MUCH more to come in the near future!

Hi Jared,

Sorry I missed the question earlier about cleaning out tanks. I took my Locomobile water tank to a Radiator place that does huge radiators for big generators for buildings. Car radiator places only have 6" deep tanks. Anyway, they dunked the tank and soldered up the leaks, pressure tested, and I was on my way.

With a little help, I was able to finished cleaning up the welds and re-mount the windshield today on the car. Might need a little offset bushing to line it up perfect, but we'll see how it fits with the top on a non-rainy day! The side that was welded measures something like 1/2" to 3/4" farther forward at the top than the passenger side when measuring to various door jam corners for reference. You can't really tell looking at it so we'll see how it lines up with the top before making adjustments.

I was also able to disassemble the pump box for cleaning and rebuilding. I could have maybe left it in the car and removed the pumps, but it had A LOT of crude and rust from water being left int he car. There was a burst copper water line in there so we'll see how the pump castings are. The oil pump seemed to still pump nicely and at least the front water pump was pumping too.

Last, with some help we got the packing style main steam line apart on the engine. I'm replacing at least the main length of pipe and things so it have to come apart. We hooked up some air afterwards. It took a little "popping" of the exhaust, covering it up to build pressure and releasing quick be the valves eventually popped shut and the engine sounds pretty darn good. Not much blow by considering it hasn't seem any pressure for probably 50 years or more!

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Starting to make progress!

I recall reading non-condensor pumps being "bored out" to the next 1/16" or so in diameter for a little more water and pump capacity. Has anyone done that on a condensor car or anyone recommend it?

I have the pumps apart and ready to go in the parts washer for a good de-gunking for the rebuild. Curious if there is room or if anyone has done a slight overbore for the capacity. I plan on either Ground 440C or Hard Chromed pistons for them.

The fuel pump piston has some very light pits/gall marks. Polish or replace? I need to clean it further to see them better, but they seem to be almost undetectable, but there is something there.

The non-condensing pumps have a separate barrel inside the pump body that can be bored out to change the diameter and volume

The condensing pumps do not have this barrel. I never had a problem not having enough water with my 1920 even pushing it hard with my Derr boiler.
Also the wall thickness is not much on the condensing pump. There is a small barrel that could be opened up a very little but this would change the packing size. Not a good idea.
Rolly

Jared, On several of our Stanleys, for years they have use hard chromed pistons for the water pumps with great results. The hard chromed round stock for water pump pistons is very affordable and it is the way to go. Our 1916 Stanley Mt. Wagon came with the hard chromed water pump pistons that were installed back in 1960 by the previous owner. Since buying the Mt. Wagon in 1998, I have only added packing to the water pumps with very little maintenance at that. Since 1985, on our 1914 Stanley roadster, I have tried bronze, stainless, 4140 steel and hard chromed round stock for water pump pistons. The only water pump pistons that have lasted have been the hard chromed pistons. Hard chrome has given me no galling, no pitting, and due to a better packing seal, a lot higher water flow rate. Our 1914 Stanley's water pump packing adjustment is now about one third of what was required of the other piston types. I would guess that on our 1914 roadster,if the water pump to pistons travel were in perfect alignment, my packing adjustment for that Stanley would be almost none required. I agree with Rolly on the condensing water pumps. If they are working properly, you will have more water available than will ever be needed. My only downfall with my 1922 Stanley's water pumps is when the water tank's water got too hot, the water pumps wouldn't pump at all. In that case, a bigger sized water pump piston would be of no additional help to you. Possibly larger water pump pistons would work against you by flashing the hot water into steam sooner. The worst water pump pistons that I had ever made were out of stainless steel. Their galling was terrible.

Makes sense on the longer stroke condensor pumps to worry more about the packing seal than additional size. I'll be ordering up some hard chromed rods for these.

What about the fuel and oil pumps? The oil pump is a little dirty, but pumps good and seems to be in good shape. The kero plunger is a little pitted/banged up. This is 5/16" piston, but has a nice fillet to the hex and then has a 3/8-20 thread to fit the square block on the "H". The guide rod on the other side either needs to be turned to clean it up and bushed or replaces as well.

I might try to get hard chromed rod for the fuel too if I can and probably end up making a new square piece of the "H" to fit a 5/16" thread rather than try to adapt it down. We'll see whats available. Might check local about getting the rods hard chromed & ground too. They are in pretty good shape.

Out of Texas is where I purchase enough hard chromed rod stock to do my water pump needs for about $12 a foot. My 5/8" rod came in a 12" lengths. You cannot get anything hard chromed and ground for that little $. I found their address on line.

Hydraulic cylinder rebuilding shops have all sizes of chrome shaft around. I told a friend rebuilding a White engine to look at chrome shafting for his piston rods. He went down to a Hydraulic cylinder rebuilder and they gave him what he needed. It seems they have a lot of cutoffs.
I used 440C ground finish for my fuel pump pistons as I had it in the shop, but I like the idea of the ground chrome stuff.
Rolly
I just got back from the Top of the Lakes Tour. My forth Tour and first time finishing with a running car. Great fun.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/30/2015 11:57AM by Rolly.

Slow but steady wins the race, right? I made up a die for bending the superheater and bolted the bender to the back of my forklift for a nice steady base. Was a little tricky, but the finished bends came out nice on this. It's planar within about 3/8" after some tweaking. Need to make a few minor adjustments yet and trim/thread the other end and I'm on to the Support ring fabrication. I really need to get this moving along, but this is a great start and one of the bigger roadblocks I had!

And yes, it's a black pipe superheater not stainless. I've heard many that have had black pipe superheaters that have lasted many many years and stainless has failed as well. This design will not be extremely intensive to work on so if it fails in a few years, so be it. I expect good service from it to get me going, hopefully it doesn't prove me wrong!

Photos show on top of the boiler for reference and my rusty hulk forklift working as an excellent deadweight for the bender!

Through the last thirty years of steaming, I have found that schedule 40 stainless pipe has given me the least problems. Black schedule 40 pipe soon burns out from firing up the boiler without enough water in the super heater. Stainless tubing works for a while before it's thin walls soon give out. I installed an original NOS super heater that I had purchased at the Stanley Museum Auction into our 735B Stanley. It was made of what looked like 7/16" schedule 80 black pipe. To my amazement, it lasted me only a year before it too burned out. I have yet to have any of our 1/2 " schedule 40 stainless pipe super heaters to ever fail me.

Pat, Thanks for the info on schedule 40! Sometimes more metal is not the answer. I'm making this up in a manner that if (most would say when) it fails, it's not a super difficult job working on it. We'll see.

I'm really happy with the bends and have some materials to start realizing the design thats in my head for the ring. Hopefully I'll be making bigger steps of progress in the next few weeks/months. I'd really like to have it steaming before the end of the year, even if not fully ready for touring. Fingers crossed.

I also use black iron pipe and never had a problem thus far. Question Why is the super heater 1/2 id when the throttle only has a 5/16 hole in the outlet? On my 30 hp car I made a larger throttle with 1'' drum 9/16 outlet Stanley style . Works well. on smaller engines 10hp I've been using 3/8 pipe.I think it helps you can get more footage inside the burner. Maybee I'm wrong. Bill Barnes

Bill the original one I inspected was ½ iron pipe. But it was Sch 80 heavy wall
If I were going to use something other then stainless it would be 4130 seamless air craft tubing I have used this for vaporizers as well.
Rolly

Stanley did have a larger throttle, I don’t know what they used it on.
It inlet pipe from the boiler was one inch
The outlet hole was 0.529
The inner barrel had six 0.265 holes.
Rolly

You might had like on my Mercedes diesel and gas turbines...the fuel itself does not go bad,but water
droplets from condensation/? carry oil eating bacteria..if it smelled to high heaven
that is what happened.Had to replace pretty much entire fuel system because it was getting pretty slimy and spread more bacteria to your new diesel/kerosene.They actually have bacteriacide at many diesel supplies places.

Finally some real progress again. I hunkered down and worked on the burner ring for the 735. My burner is setup like the later condensor cars to have a flat gasket on a ring which is more "permanently" attached to the car and has all the blow down and super heater penetrations. The burner is made shallower for the ring as well and would require a new outer case to have any room for the superheater. Plus, I like the way the burner can be dropped removing only 2 lines and the clamp bolts and not the need to re-mud the pipes if removed.

Starting with a ring of 1/8" like the original (maybe just old, not original) ring that came off my 740, I added a 1/2" angle ring to the bottom to help contain the insulation and act as the surface for the rope gasket to seal to.

Next, using the closest size shaft collars (bored out to match 1/2" pipe), I fabbed up the first of the superheater attachments. As you can see, these are just outside the ring and allow the ring to be mounted and the superheater attached after.

Welds are aren't the prettiest but are getting better as I go. It's a little overkill, but I think it'll work out pretty well when complete! Fun Fun!

Excellent super heater. Nice and long, I like that. Might use stainless fasteners coated with Neversieze for the super heater retainers. Steel fasteners would quickly rust in solid.

Thanks! I was definitely going to be liberal with the neversieze but I wasn't sure if Stainless would be better or worth for this area. Technically the fasteners shouldn't be too hot as they will be fairly insulated outside the fire (they are 2" off the outside of the ring or so). We'll see how it goes. Hoping to keep up some momentum and have this ring mostly complete by the end of the weekend. Or at least the steel part without the stainless firebox liner.

Nice work on that superheater and ring.
Rolly

It's amazing how the weeks and weeks just roll by. I haven't quite finished the superheater ring but I'm trying to hunker down and work on the car soon. Been SO darn busy lately between auctions, our Cabin Fever Expo show, a minor knee surgery, snow.... I made portions of the new pump pistons a few weeks ago but not a ton of progress. Here's hoping I'll really get moving on things in February!!

No too much, but progress is progress. Spent about 30 minutes and got the second superheater opening started in the ring. Once that's done it'll really start moving!

Looks gorgeous. Interestingly, Auburn Heights has just received, as part of a donation, a removable superheater, like the one in this patent:

[www.stanleymotorcarriage.com]

I hadn't seen one in real life before - don't know when they were used.

Nice! Looking forward to seeing it sometime!

Kelly Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Looks gorgeous. Interestingly, Auburn Heights has
> just received, as part of a donation, a removable
> superheater, like the one in this patent:
>
> [www.stanleymotorcarriage.com]
> y%20-%20Others/1364178%20-%20Steam%20Generating%20
> Apparatus%20(Broad%20-%20SMC).pdf
>
> I hadn't seen one in real life before - don't know
> when they were used.

I purchase from a Stanley Museum Auction a super heater exactly like this one pictured. I installed it into my 1922 735 B and it lasted just about a year before it burned out. I guess possibly a firing up without enough water in it finished it off. I have been using seamless schedule 40 pipe ever since without any problems.

It may not be a fire in the car yet, but the fire under my a$$ is heating up to make this car run.

Dad came over Saturday and was rubbing on the old and tired paint. It's not going to be beautiful, but after some compound and wax it should have a nice "you know its old" look to it.

The boiler is insulated and in the frame for good now. Needs some diplag after a few more fastenings and things. The Superheater ring is just about finished, needing final insulation put in and it can be attached in place for good. Boiler hold downs are just about done, just need to adjust the burner hook bolts for the current burner and we'll be ready to pull that up in place.

But there are lots of valves to rebuild and re-pack first. Progress is progress though!

A little more progress. Started a coat of paint and working on getting the pump box back together. The Hand pumps are cleaned up, repacked, and back in the car. Bunt a loop and working on fitting a main steam line as well. There are a few "bigger" Tasks to knock out and then a boat load of little things to get cranking on but making headway.