What are everyone's tricks to free up a stuck hood hinge pin? It was flexed a bit with a seized pin prior to me picking it up, but I don't think it's bent too bad and I don't see any stress cracks. I've been spraying it with a little gibbs and PB Blaster but before I go and spend too much effort I thought I would ask for tricks to free them up. It's the single long pin on the 735 hood.

Also - Does anyone by chance have or know of anyone with any 735 body parts around? Specifically I'd be looking for the aluminum windshield mount casting on the cowl and possibly the Drivers side upright windshield support. Both can be repaired, but if someone has or knew of someone with some parts that may match laying around, it would be a big help.

I put some pressure to the 1919 boiler today and not surprisingly, but has leaks. There were beads of water around a good number of tubes, possibly more on the top sheet than the bottom. I'm feeling the boiler is likely not worth messing with...

Thanks!

_______________________________________________
Jared Schoenly

1919 Stanley 735B Original Car
1922 Stanley Sedan Project
1930 Pontiac Coupe
1933 Ford Stake Body
Whatever else I can get into trouble with....

Sorry, I don't have the body parts. Not unusual for beads of water to appear around the fire tubes/tube sheet on a cold pressure test. Depending on the pressure that they show up is how bad it is. Swaging the boiler tubes should put you back into fine shape. Pressure testing at 750 pounds cold will usually produce beads of water around the fire tubes on a good used boiler. At 400 pounds cold, the used boiler should be tight. When the boiler is hot, the copper tubes expand and the boiler becomes tighter. On steel tubes, there isn't that much of an improvement between hot and cold boiler tests. If your steel tubes are welded in, then it can be a lot more work to get the leaks finally stopped. Often a lot of work with no success. A copper tubed boiler that is used up just will not swage tight after several tries. Often when a boiler is scorched, it will take as many as four complete swagings to get the tubes tight again.

Leaks on the top leak steam not water,,thus of less consequence
Ie,,not leak on the burner to crack it,,
Pat , whats the temp there,,
stayed around +5 all day,,,Ben

Dear Ben. Lately, it has been about 50 degrees during the days and down to about 36 at night. We just got through a week of about 20 degree nights and 34 degree days. Pruned our fruit trees today. When a boiler is hydro tested cold, that is when the beads of water will show on the top tube sheet.

Cold spell here in PA. It was 9 deg coming home from a friends last night at 10PM. Been in the 20's and staying cold. I don't care for the weather guesser's much, just judge my clothing needs when I take the dog our in the morning....

On the boiler - There's more to it that just water beads that I hadn't started off with mentioning. The boiler filled pretty slowly and has drained very slow. It could be crude in a fitting or valve, but to get water flowing it took nearly 300 lbs to "start the flow". I have a commercial style hand hydro pump and with my ~40 psi well pushing water, the boiler took quite some time to fill. Again it could be in the fittings, but I suspect a lot of scale and corrosion to be in the boiler which would plague things ongoing. I can't get the wrapper off to see the wire with it still installed, but this is an original drawn shell Stanley boiler stamped 19114 and can't see why it would not be from the same era of the car.

Additionally, it was a steel tubed boiler with the trepanning on the bottom sheet for the welds. It seems in the retubing they chucked it up in a lathe and skim cut the bottom sheet as there are progressive circular marks on the flattened area (low spots of the trepanning). It has a copper or brass or nickel alloy set of tubes in it, heavily swaged over against the tube sheets (so far so that there are cracks to the swaged section).

Long story short, with all the down sides - I'd rather not start a losing battle or at least a painful one. So I'm going to be removing the boiler in favor of a new unit. I want to drive the car, not just display it so I think it's for the best.

It's nice to see that so much of the piping is so original though. It seems to have all the correct checks and parts where they would have been setup as depicted from new. The only piping modifications I can see on this car (under the hood, dash, or frame) are the addition of a reflex glass under the hood in the front drivers corner and a small pressure gauge at the bottom of the steam automatic showing the fuel pressure in the line to the vaporizer. It's pretty cool going over this car and I don't plan to modify much of anything on it.

In filling the boiler, one has to vent the boiler (Open the throttle valve) to vent off the air so that the boiler will completely fill with water. Your 40 psi water pressure should fill the boiler from empty in less than five minutes. Keeping in mind that the water usually has to pass through some 1/8" pipe fittings to get into the boiler. It is peace of mind to know that one is running a new boiler and that he has a current history on it. I usually get about 40,000 miles out of a new boiler. My boiler's limiting life factors being scale and being scorched. One is just as big of a threat to the boiler as the other is. My boilers stay clean if I use enough TSP for my boiler treatment. TSP dissolves the boiler's accumulated mineral deposits. Seems that everyone will scorch their Stanley boiler at least once. After having to re-swage their boiler, he knows that he doesn't ever want to scorch a boiler again. :)

The boiler took easily 30-40 minutes or more to fill with it vented. It seemed quite long and I suspect a decent amount of scale....

Back to numbers and things, as said in a previous post the boiler is stamped 19114. In a little leisure browsing of the register as I do from time to time, Chassis 19114 was Fred Marriott's car from the factory as a demonstrator. I have to wonder if the boiler may have come from that car originally before being re-tubed.

I forget now from the correspondence, but did Stanley re-tube boilers? I recall a preference to replace the boiler listed. Also, did all copper tubed boilers from the factory come with ferrules?

We have left the relevance to the original subject somewhat, but just interesting stuff in looking around. Thanks!