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Rebuilding Stanley 3-way Check Valves
Posted by: Alan Woolf (IP Logged)
Date: March 25, 2003 12:42AM
<HTML>The three-way check valve in the fuel system of our 1917 Stanley appears to be leaking under pressure. We have four spares that are in various states of disrepair. In the four spares there are two different styles of check valve. One has a loose ball and the second has a ball with a compression spring in the cap to aid in seating the ball. Two questions come to mind as we try to determine which check valve to rebuild. 1) Which style of check valve is preferable…with or without the spring? 2) What is the best way to repair the seat and restore the seal?
Alan</HTML>
Alan</HTML>
Re: Rebuilding Stanley 3-way Check Valves
Posted by: Pat Farrell (IP Logged)
Date: March 25, 2003 03:27AM
<HTML>I prefer the check valve without the spring. Both will work. Without the spring, it has worked better for me. If the seat is not too bad, I would repair it by: Taking a new steel ball bearing of the correct size, drop it into the seat and lightly tape the top of the bearing with a small driver. This should seat the new bearing to the seat. Install a new bearing in the check valve and mount it in the car so that gravity will have the bearing resting on the seat when it is installed. If the seat is in too rough of condition for this quick seat repair, then make this tool by a new ball bearing to the end of a piece of 3/16" round stock and use this and valve lapping compound to pollish out any pits or irregularities in the check valve seat. Do not grind too deep or the valve seat will have to be "topped" to allow proper clearance for the fuel to pass the new check ball. Install as above. If while hand pumping fuel, you get a buzz in the check valve, either take slower, deliberate strokes or install the check valve with the spring. SSsssteamer</HTML>
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