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1906 EX Stanley
Posted by: Gary Hoonsbeen (IP Logged)
Date: March 20, 2004 11:26PM
<HTML>1) What was the tire size used on the 1906 ex Stanley?
2) Was the EX ever supplied with wire wheels?
3) What is the normal boiler pressure used on the 10 HP EX model?
4) Is the preferred fuel gasoline?
5) What is a good running speed for the 10 HP Stanley EX dated 1906?
Thanks</HTML>
2) Was the EX ever supplied with wire wheels?
3) What is the normal boiler pressure used on the 10 HP EX model?
4) Is the preferred fuel gasoline?
5) What is a good running speed for the 10 HP Stanley EX dated 1906?
Thanks</HTML>
Re: 1906 EX Stanley
Posted by: Richard W Roberts (IP Logged)
Date: March 22, 2004 02:34AM
<HTML>1= The correct tire size is 30 X 3 clincher for the 1906 Stanley!
2= As to wire wheels, I have never seen such either in literature or on a car, but would not rule anything out .
3= Boiler pressure of 400 lbs.
4= Gasoline for both pilot and main burner.
5= A good operating speed is determined by the skill of the driver, and 40 mph on level going is fair, with 10 mph more if boiler steaming very well and driver being a dare devil !</HTML>
2= As to wire wheels, I have never seen such either in literature or on a car, but would not rule anything out .
3= Boiler pressure of 400 lbs.
4= Gasoline for both pilot and main burner.
5= A good operating speed is determined by the skill of the driver, and 40 mph on level going is fair, with 10 mph more if boiler steaming very well and driver being a dare devil !</HTML>
Re: 1906 EX Stanley
Posted by: Peter Turvey (IP Logged)
Date: March 22, 2004 01:38PM
<HTML>Wow - does an EX really go this fast? Wonder how well it stops.....Our Model 607, with larger boiler and engine at 500 psi but heavier and lower geared is said to be good for 30-35 mph. I will put this to the test when John Goold has turned the pile of bits into a working car!</HTML>
Re: 1906 EX Stanley
Posted by: Kobus van Jaarsveld (IP Logged)
Date: March 24, 2004 06:24PM
<HTML>
Richard is right. But I run my 1907 EX up to 550 Pounds pressure and the performance is indecent for such an old car. But then I did break a frame rod.......Old and fatigued it was of course ! Replaced them with rods made out of EN 24.
The original outboard drum brakes had a brass circular shoe working directly on the inside of the drum. I removed some metal from the shoe and from the drum making enough clearance to bond a modern liner on to the shoe. This holds the car well but heat buildup remains a problem. The two internal contracting bands next to the differential get oil all over them and will slow the car after prolonged depression of the pedal. I use both brake pedals simultaneously and this gives fairly good control.</HTML>
Richard is right. But I run my 1907 EX up to 550 Pounds pressure and the performance is indecent for such an old car. But then I did break a frame rod.......Old and fatigued it was of course ! Replaced them with rods made out of EN 24.
The original outboard drum brakes had a brass circular shoe working directly on the inside of the drum. I removed some metal from the shoe and from the drum making enough clearance to bond a modern liner on to the shoe. This holds the car well but heat buildup remains a problem. The two internal contracting bands next to the differential get oil all over them and will slow the car after prolonged depression of the pedal. I use both brake pedals simultaneously and this gives fairly good control.</HTML>
Re: 1906 EX Stanley
Posted by: Dick Vennerbeck (IP Logged)
Date: March 25, 2004 12:59AM
<HTML>Kobus,
Hi again. I'm working on a sealing arrangement to keep the oil off my internal brakes. The "modern" old time fix for Model T Fords was to twist up a pair of old nylon stockings and wrap them around the axle and hold in place with some sort of backing plate. I have not tried this...yet.
Another innovation I saw on a car was a three liter Pepsi bottle under the floorboards 3/4 full of water and a valve. The bottle was pressurized to something like 50 psi and a hose ran to the backing plates of the rear brakes! When the brakes got hot, you opened the needle valve and supposedly cooled them off. I know this works because I used to race against Jaguars on the late 60's that used tha same idea. (My 67 S2 Elan needed no help in the brake department..just in the HP dept)
Dick</HTML>
Hi again. I'm working on a sealing arrangement to keep the oil off my internal brakes. The "modern" old time fix for Model T Fords was to twist up a pair of old nylon stockings and wrap them around the axle and hold in place with some sort of backing plate. I have not tried this...yet.
Another innovation I saw on a car was a three liter Pepsi bottle under the floorboards 3/4 full of water and a valve. The bottle was pressurized to something like 50 psi and a hose ran to the backing plates of the rear brakes! When the brakes got hot, you opened the needle valve and supposedly cooled them off. I know this works because I used to race against Jaguars on the late 60's that used tha same idea. (My 67 S2 Elan needed no help in the brake department..just in the HP dept)
Dick</HTML>
Re: 1906 EX Stanley
Posted by: Alan Woolf (IP Logged)
Date: March 25, 2004 07:14PM
<HTML>Normal boiler pressure is kind of a mixed question. The boiler will be safe at 600 psi but I think the range of the steam gage will limit it to less than 600 psi. Seems like we ran car that we did some work on at 525 psi. At that pressure is accelerates like crazy, however, judicious use of the throttle is recommended because they are fragile cars and easy to break.
30-35 mph is good cruising speed for an EX. Much over that is a white knuckle experience.
If the car is running the original single fuel system then you are pretty much limited to gasoline for fuel. If it has been converted to a dual fuel system then I like coleman fuel for the pilot and a mix of diesel/gasoline for the main fuel. A 50/50 mix is a good place to start.
EX's are fun to drive and since they have no muffler they have a nice exhaust bark but they are fragile and the dry engine is also a downside.
Alan</HTML>
30-35 mph is good cruising speed for an EX. Much over that is a white knuckle experience.
If the car is running the original single fuel system then you are pretty much limited to gasoline for fuel. If it has been converted to a dual fuel system then I like coleman fuel for the pilot and a mix of diesel/gasoline for the main fuel. A 50/50 mix is a good place to start.
EX's are fun to drive and since they have no muffler they have a nice exhaust bark but they are fragile and the dry engine is also a downside.
Alan</HTML>
Re: 1906 EX Stanley
Posted by: Peter Turvey (IP Logged)
Date: March 26, 2004 12:26PM
<HTML>I must say I find all thsi information fascinating, as I nearly bought a 1906 EX from Rob Williams - but as it was in Idaho I cold not get anyone out there to check it for use in time. When our Model 607 see www.stanleysteamcar.co.uk ) s done it will be interesting to compare it with an EX. I still think they are very pretty little cars.</HTML>
Re: 1906 EX Stanley
Posted by: Mike Clark (IP Logged)
Date: March 26, 2004 08:31PM
<HTML>There has been talk of a brake lining material for use in oily situations which should help the differential brake problem. I'll look into it. Have to admit I took them off my H and refitted them outside the wheel drums.
Dry engine lubrication problem is solved by fitting a drip feed tank above the frame rod with pipes to drip onto the wrist pins as they pass by and pipes from nipples through which you can squirt oil to the eccentrics and the main bearings. A tray under the engine inside the case collects the oil which drips off and channels it back to the crankshaft gear. which in turn throws it forward over the link gear. I put about 25 ml of oil into the drip tank at each water fill and squirt the nipples once a day. A lot of oil falls on the road but since fitting this the engine stays beautifully clean and I've had no problem with the wristpin bearings.
Mike</HTML>
Dry engine lubrication problem is solved by fitting a drip feed tank above the frame rod with pipes to drip onto the wrist pins as they pass by and pipes from nipples through which you can squirt oil to the eccentrics and the main bearings. A tray under the engine inside the case collects the oil which drips off and channels it back to the crankshaft gear. which in turn throws it forward over the link gear. I put about 25 ml of oil into the drip tank at each water fill and squirt the nipples once a day. A lot of oil falls on the road but since fitting this the engine stays beautifully clean and I've had no problem with the wristpin bearings.
Mike</HTML>
Re: 1906 EX Stanley
Posted by: Kobus van Jaarsveld (IP Logged)
Date: March 27, 2004 04:35PM
<HTML>
Friction linings that work in oil is at least as old as the Model T. I have bonded this type of lining to the transmission bands on my 1902 Curve Dash Olds. Here too the linings get oil on them from the planetary gearsets and to keep things sweet and make sure all works well I regularly squirt SAE 40 directly on to the linings. The transmission brake works very effectively, to the point where the rear axle can be locked if one wanted be that unwise. This is of course also possible with a Model T
I followed this reasoning with the inboard brakes on the EX and fitted Model T type linings to the brake bands. Knowing that the oil from the differential gear will find it's way on the linings, I squirted copious amounts of the cylinder oil used to lubricate the differential gear on to the linings. To my disappointment the brakes have none of the bite one finds in a model T or the Curve Dash described above. The brakes do work, and work well, but only after prolonged application of the pedal.
This leads me to think that in my case the problem does not lie with the linings, but with the type of lubricant which the linings are exposed to. Maybe I should try some SAE 40 and see what happens.</HTML>
Friction linings that work in oil is at least as old as the Model T. I have bonded this type of lining to the transmission bands on my 1902 Curve Dash Olds. Here too the linings get oil on them from the planetary gearsets and to keep things sweet and make sure all works well I regularly squirt SAE 40 directly on to the linings. The transmission brake works very effectively, to the point where the rear axle can be locked if one wanted be that unwise. This is of course also possible with a Model T
I followed this reasoning with the inboard brakes on the EX and fitted Model T type linings to the brake bands. Knowing that the oil from the differential gear will find it's way on the linings, I squirted copious amounts of the cylinder oil used to lubricate the differential gear on to the linings. To my disappointment the brakes have none of the bite one finds in a model T or the Curve Dash described above. The brakes do work, and work well, but only after prolonged application of the pedal.
This leads me to think that in my case the problem does not lie with the linings, but with the type of lubricant which the linings are exposed to. Maybe I should try some SAE 40 and see what happens.</HTML>
Re: 1906 EX Stanley
Posted by: David K. Nergaard (IP Logged)
Date: March 28, 2004 12:32PM
<HTML>There is a brake lining called "Green Grabber" which is designed to work in an oily environment. I know at least one Stanley driver has had good luck with it, but have no experience myself.</HTML>
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