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Rust Pits in Slide Valves
Posted by: SSsssteamer (IP Logged)
Date: October 20, 2005 02:50AM
<HTML>I have deep rust pits in my 1916 30 hp Stanley slide valves. The rust pits are bad enough that they have started to make my slide valves chatter. The pits are too deep to machine all the way out. My cylinder block's valve faces are still clean but the slide valves need welding up. I do not want to cast iron weld them for fear of making cracks and messing up the quality of cast iron. How about brazing the pits level with brass and them milling the faces clean again? That is after grinding all of the rust out of the pits. How would the brass wear? Would there be electrolysis with dissimilar metals? Anybody have a good pair of 30 hp slide valves that I can buy? I can easily machine new slide valve castings if necessary.</HTML>
Re: Rust Pits in Slide Valves
Posted by: SSsssteamer (IP Logged)
Date: October 21, 2005 02:18AM
<HTML>One of our phorum readers had a pair of 30 hp slide valve castings. I am saved. :-) Thank you very much.</HTML>
Re: Rust Pits in Slide Valves
Posted by: Gary Hoonsbeen (IP Logged)
Date: November 19, 2005 07:40PM
<HTML>I just took apart a 10 HP engine where the D slide valves had been brazed in one or two places. It looks like it was used this way for some time but cannot say for sure.
Give me the measurements of the D valves, I may have some in a pile of junk I received. I know they are too small for my 10 HP requirements.</HTML>
Give me the measurements of the D valves, I may have some in a pile of junk I received. I know they are too small for my 10 HP requirements.</HTML>
Re: Rust Pits in Slide Valves
Posted by: SSsssteamer (IP Logged)
Date: November 20, 2005 05:35AM
<HTML>Dear Gary, I have since made new valves for my 30 hp Stanley. Brazing does work but care has to be taken not to get cracks from heat expansion and shrinkage. Also the margin of miles left in a used slide vale is also a consideration in trying to extend their life by welding them up for extended service. Your smaller valves would be too small for my larger engine. I had a 10 hp slide valve split in two on the first day of a four day tour once, and I knew that it was too thin when I rebuilt the engine. It is false economy to use inferior parts. I am more careful now. Thank you and good luck. I have been following your delima ever since you traded off your Locomobile for your project car. It is a long road but you will do ok and you will learn a lot about your Stanley along the way. Sincerely, Pat Farrell</HTML>
Re: Rust Pits in Slide Valves
Posted by: Ben in Maine (IP Logged)
Date: November 20, 2005 01:35PM
<HTML> Hi,,,I would worry that the braze expands and contracts at a different rate than the cast iron,,,,,,so the valve will only be flat at one temperature,,,room temp,,,, A hard spot in the valve may wear the block unevenly,,,not good,,,,,Cheers Ben</HTML>
Re: Rust Pits in Slide Valves
Posted by: SSsssteamer (IP Logged)
Date: January 04, 2006 10:24PM
<HTML>The newly machined slide valves now have 53 miles on them and I can not hear any steam leaking by them. They are working good. And 30 hp strong too. They still needs another 50 miles of full valve stroke before I will be completely satisfied that they are fully lapped in. Then watch out. Hook up here I come. Tom Kane was my fireman, and Marge Kane was our passenger today.</HTML>
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