I am ready to adjust the oil pump on a model 71 Stanley. It is the style that has the external adjustment pin and spring on the front of the pump. How do I go about this prior to running?
Many thanks
Greg Johnson

Greg is this the pump
I have attached a drawing.

Rolly

Hi Rolly,
This is the pump I have. I have two questions actually.
#1 How far should the pump plunger go into the body of the pump at its inner most position?

#2 What position should the pin with the two lock nuts on the front of the pump be set to for the initial run?

Thanks for your help.

Greg Johnson

Greg
If you noticed this pump has no check on the inlet side. The plunger or piston has to come out just beyond the inlet hole at the backside of the stroke so oil can be sucked in. Then it closes the inlet hole as it travels in.
I don’t know what year cars this pump was used on. I’d like to know. I try to do drawing of all the parts I get my hands on.
I know one is being used on a 1920. That means it is being driven from a gear off the rear end. How is it driven on your Model 71 from the engine or the rearend?
If its from the engine then you get more strokes.
The back spring plunger adjust the volume output of the pump.

Rolly

All Stanley noncondensing car's oil pumps were driven from their engine's cross heads. To set this pump, it takes some fiddeling to finally get it set right. To start out, bleed the pump of air. As the engine is turned over, a pulse of oil should come from the output line of the pump. Too much oil at this point is cheap insurance. The two nuts that are jammed together on the little shaft with a spring is what is set to get the correct metered amount. When you finally get your adjustment close to correct, you will find that adjusting the little jam nuts just one flat makes quite a difference in the rate of oil used. The driven piston from the cross head has to completely clear the incoming port on it's back stroke to allow oil into the pump. I set my non condensing cars oil use rate to 1 quart of oil every 100 miles. Between the winker flashing and the square pattern of oil on the ground below your exhaust stack, you will know if your engine is getting oil or not. If you hear your slide valves squeeking while running, check out your oiling immediately. When I hear this noise while traveling, I will get off the throttle and avoid hard pulls until I can find a wide spot in the road to check it out. Usually it is the oil pump packing nut that needs attention. It is not unusal to have your slide valves squeek occasionally when starting out from a stand still. The slide valves should never chatter.

Pat says you need one Qt per 100 miles.
The distance from the two holes (inlet to outlet) in the pump = .0054241 Cu inch.
With 34 inch Diameters tires you can get 5.57 Qts in one hundred miles if the pump takes a full gulp of oil. If I did my math right?

Rolly

Thanks very much for this information. I really appreciate the response from both Rolly and Pat. Hopefully this will prevent some scored valves!

Rolly, my pumps are in the so called pump pit under the front floor boards and are engine driven from the right crosshead pin. The stroke is reduced from the engine stroke ( 5 Inches) by the pivot levers under the rear floor boards.

Greg

Hi Greg
I am familiar with how your pumps should be driven, but not your piratical car as so many are modified. The calculation I did to determine the amount of oil is a little off as I used 40/60 gears in lieu of the 48/60 that should be on the Modal 71. But the pump will put out more oil then necessary.
I have attached a drawing of the way the pumps are driven on a Modal EX 1907-1909E2
When the engine has linkup. I assume yours are similar, only with a twenty HP engine.
Rolly

Rolly



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/05/2007 01:55PM by Rolly.