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    <title>1 Steam Cars</title>
    <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/list.php?1</link>
    <description><![CDATA[General Steam Car topics]]></description>
    <language>EN</language>
    <pubDate>Fri, 10 May 2013 15:36:53 -0400</pubDate>
    <lastBuildDate>Fri, 10 May 2013 15:36:53 -0400</lastBuildDate>
    <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
    <generator>Phorum 5.1.15</generator>
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    <item>
      <title>Re: What are your work shop projects being worked on?</title>
      <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,10469,11376#msg-11376</link>
      <author>mike clark</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I forget stuff too!!

Mike]]></description>
      <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,10469,11376#msg-11376</guid>
      <pubDate>Fri, 10 May 2013 15:36:53 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: What are your work shop projects being worked on?</title>
      <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,10469,11375#msg-11375</link>
      <author>SSsssteamer</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I have been working on our 1914 Stanley roadster pump pit.  After getting everything squared up again, I installed new hard chrome water pump pistons.  Then I had a fit in getting the oil pump to register in the winker again.  First the oil pump drive road was 3/8&quot; too short and I had to make a longer drive rod.  I then had to get it pumping again.  It wouldn't show in the winker.  After a lot of fooling around includeing removing the winker glass to see that the lubrication was really getting that far, I finally remembered....  On the Sequoia National Park Tour, I had ran short on 600 W Steam cylinder oil and I had to use some synthetic 140 Wt. gear lube to get me home.  When 140 wt is hot, it became thinned out too much to make the winker glass wink.  Plus, it wasn't dark enough to see it in the winker anyway.  After using my wife's turkey baseter to suck all of the oil out of my oil reservoir, and refilling it with the proper 600 W oil, the winker is now operating again.  I am going to have to reset the oil flow to a slower rate as I had fiddled with the adjustment.  I turned it only two flats, but that makes a big difference.  I put about 20 miles on the roadster this afternoon and I enjoyed every second of it.]]></description>
      <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,10469,11375#msg-11375</guid>
      <pubDate>Wed, 08 May 2013 00:24:08 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: What are your work shop projects being worked on?</title>
      <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,10469,11374#msg-11374</link>
      <author>SSsssteamer</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Rolly...  Its time of year to get the water boiling again in our old steamers.  The Sequoia National Park would have been a lot more fun later in the year.  We have to go back to the big trees in the sunshine some year to see what we missed.  At the 3,000 foot level it was posted &quot;tire chains are required&quot; and it was snowing at the time to the 8,000 foot level, but the roads were mostly clear.  The Stanley did well on the ice.  The next time we will do it in the warmer weather.]]></description>
      <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,10469,11374#msg-11374</guid>
      <pubDate>Sat, 27 Apr 2013 10:43:50 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: What are your work shop projects being worked on?</title>
      <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,10469,11373#msg-11373</link>
      <author>Rolly</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Pat
Are you saying it’s time we got out of the shop and d-winterized the Stanley’s 
I just finished a pattern for 20 HP crossheads and brought it over to the foundry to cast some in Navy G SAE 620 CDA 903

Rolly]]></description>
      <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,10469,11373#msg-11373</guid>
      <pubDate>Sat, 27 Apr 2013 07:56:46 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: What are your work shop projects being worked on?</title>
      <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,10469,11372#msg-11372</link>
      <author>SSsssteamer</author>
      <description><![CDATA[On April 14th, 2013, we took a 7 day driving tour in Southern California, steaming some days up to 138 miles in length.  On the  4 day part of progressive touring, we went up into the Sequoia National Park  and we traveled with a group of ten pre 16 gas cars to the a Park lodge where at the 8,000 foot elevation, we spent the night.  Our car froze up and was damaged in 20 degree F. and 20 mph winds.  Lately, I have been working on rebuilding my pump pit on our 1914 Stanley Roadster.  After our freeze up there, I moved the Stanley without first checking the water pumps for being frozen solid. Leaving a day ahead of the others. I broke the pump drive rocker arm in two and I bent the &quot;H&quot; pump drive a bit to a diamond shape from the freeze up.  Even with that damage, traveling only by ourselves and no back up, we successfully drove the roadster 36 miles down the mountain road without the pump drive working.  Wife &quot;Merrily&quot; hand pumped the water and fuel until we found a place where I could borrow a welder and I could make the needed emergency repairs at the small town of  Three Rivers.  Because I couldn't get any cylinder lubrication to the engine for those 36 desperate miles, we kept the steam pressure down to a low 150 psi in hoping that saturated steam would be our cylinder lubrication. After our roadside welding repair, we had to drive over a hundred miles to get to Bakersfield that night. I just checked out our engine and no damage was done to it. Wet steam worked! Our steam gauge was thrown 50 pounds out of calibration because of the ice in it. The snow covered Sequoia trees were gigantic!]]></description>
      <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,10469,11372#msg-11372</guid>
      <pubDate>Sat, 27 Apr 2013 02:26:48 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Running board boxes</title>
      <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11310,11371#msg-11371</link>
      <author>allen</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Jeff, I have a couple reproductions of these boxes.]]></description>
      <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11310,11371#msg-11371</guid>
      <pubDate>Fri, 26 Apr 2013 13:15:02 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Warren Engine</title>
      <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,2097,11370#msg-11370</link>
      <author>Rolly</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Edward Christopher Warren rotary engine
I did a pattern search. 

Patent number: 680510
Filing date: Jan 31, 1900
Issue date: Aug 13, 1901

Patent number: 761799
Filing date: Sep 25, 1902
Issue date: Jun 7, 1904

Rolly


http://www.google.com/patents/US680510?printsec=drawing&amp;dq=Edward+C.+Warren+rotary+engine&amp;ei=SapuUZG8EI3C4APx-4DoAw#v=onepage&amp;q=Edward%20C.%20Warren%20rotary%20engine&amp;f=false


http://www.google.com/patents/US761799?pg=PA2&amp;dq=Edward+C.+Warren+rotary+engine&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ei=SapuUZG8EI3C4APx-4DoAw&amp;sqi=2&amp;pjf=1&amp;ved=0CDgQ6wEwAQ#v=onepage&amp;q=Edward%20C.%20Warren%20rotary%20engine&amp;f=false]]></description>
      <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,2097,11370#msg-11370</guid>
      <pubDate>Wed, 17 Apr 2013 10:05:45 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Warren Engine</title>
      <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,2097,11369#msg-11369</link>
      <author>Rolly</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Navette along side the canal bank Labella Florida. 
Rolly]]></description>
      <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,2097,11369#msg-11369</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 15 Apr 2013 21:12:35 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Warren Engine</title>
      <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,2097,11368#msg-11368</link>
      <author>Ben</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I wonder if Paul Hammond was related to Jack Hammond,,with the 1650 imported castle just south of Gloucester,,,in Magnolia,,
He had to do with early radar and sonar,,Info from Fred Hartung of Marblehead,,
Fred was born in 1880 I think,,,Cheers,,Ben]]></description>
      <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,2097,11368#msg-11368</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 15 Apr 2013 19:48:51 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Warren Engine</title>
      <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,2097,11367#msg-11367</link>
      <author>Rolly</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I wonder if it was The rotary steam turbine that Edward Christopher Warren, an associate of the renowned Niola Tesla, designed and installed in the Herreshoff yacht Navette, built for J. P. Morgan in 1901,

 
Paul Hammond, a good friend of the Herreshoffs, bought NAVETTE's steam engines with the idea of using them in a new boat. At the same time the yacht including the boiler was purchased by Edward Christopher Warren, inventor of the Warren Steam Engine. Mr. Warren, himself a distinguished marine engineer, used NAVETTE as a test vehicle for his own engines.
He and certain of his ten children lived aboard. 

http://www.herreshoffregistry.org/forum/index.php?topic=510.0


Another bit of information,
Dear Editor:
Further to Red Marston's letter about Navette in NQ 19, the following is a bit of historical trivia. Edward C. Warren bought Navette sometime late in WWII to use as a demonstrator for a novel type of steam engine that he had invented; it was rotary configuration. He took out the beautiful Herreshoff up-and-downers and installed a pair of his rotaries. He was unsuccessful in selling the idea to the Navy and decided to take the vessel south, with his daughters as crew. At some point in all this, he found that the law required that he have a licensed steam engineer aboard. So one of the daughters (I forget which one) promptly did a bit of studying, took the exam, and became a licensed steam engineer! They made it to Florida, not without of a good deal of trouble with the machinery, and wound up at LaBelle where I believe a relative had some waterfront land. The yacht has been there ever since.


Rolly]]></description>
      <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,2097,11367#msg-11367</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 15 Apr 2013 16:23:38 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Warren Engine</title>
      <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,2097,11366#msg-11366</link>
      <author>Karl Petersen</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I have found the Mechanix Illustrated article from December 1942. I don't know where to find the interview with Frank M. Bellanca at American Aero-Marine What other hard information is available by which we can reconstruct the specifications and performance?]]></description>
      <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
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      <pubDate>Mon, 15 Apr 2013 15:17:46 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Wrapping steam pipes</title>
      <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11364,11365#msg-11365</link>
      <author>Rolly</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Sixty-eight years ago my Father built my first steam engine. I still have it. Like any six year old I had to touch things and got my first burn from a hot pipe. The next night when Dad came home from work he handed me a ball of cotton string and told me to wrap some around all the pipes. I think I had to do it over once or twice but then he took it down to the shop and painted them with some Shellac. Worked great. 

Today I like to keep pipe as straight as I can, on the straight sections I use 1/8 inch Fiberfrax sheet, I cut a strip around ¾ of an inch wide and wrap it around the pipe till I get about ½ inch thick. This gives me my width I need to cut the sheet. I use contact cement on the edges to hold it to the pipe and at the end to secure it. On the curved sections I use round fiberglass rope or braid, fiberglass is cheaper then Fiberfrax braid and works just as well. Although Fiberfrax you can get square rope (more money) looks like square packing two rich for me.  Then I use Fiberfrax caulk to fill in all the low spots, (I use to use furnace cement) and cover the complete job with finishing cloth and paint. 

Rolly]]></description>
      <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11364,11365#msg-11365</guid>
      <pubDate>Thu, 04 Apr 2013 18:14:55 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Wrapping steam pipes</title>
      <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11364,11364#msg-11364</link>
      <author>Kelly</author>
      <description><![CDATA[What are all you Stanley (and White!) technicians using these days to wrap steam pipes?  Throttle-to-superheater, loop, loop-to-engine?  I've found some ceramic woven tape, but if you do the calculation, it would take a lot of wraps to bring 700° (which I'm probably not really getting) down to 100°.  Have been thinking of using header wrap as an inexpensive alternative.  What's working for you?

Kelly]]></description>
      <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11364,11364#msg-11364</guid>
      <pubDate>Wed, 03 Apr 2013 14:56:04 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Stanley Spring U bolts</title>
      <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11352,11363#msg-11363</link>
      <author>allen</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I have already made U bolts from 4140 for 10,20 and 30 hp Stanleys and after two years of testing have a custom manufacturer of springs using .291 steel. Other thicknesses are available and both tongue and groove and tabs are available..  Allen]]></description>
      <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11352,11363#msg-11363</guid>
      <pubDate>Sun, 31 Mar 2013 01:31:56 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Stanley Spring U bolts</title>
      <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11352,11362#msg-11362</link>
      <author>Rolly</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I am amassed at the difference between parts used on the difference models, but I guess I shouldn’t be. There still doing it today.
 
Jeff’s car is going to be a showpiece. 

Paul it looks like you’re on the right tract. I used a universal bit looks like a hollow end mill in my Bridgeport to machine the ends of my U bolt’s for threading then threaded them in the lathe. 
See attachments. 
Good luck on your project. 
Rolly]]></description>
      <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11352,11362#msg-11362</guid>
      <pubDate>Tue, 26 Mar 2013 08:52:58 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Stanley Spring U bolts</title>
      <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11352,11361#msg-11361</link>
      <author>1910 Stanley Model 60</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Jeff,
     Nice mill work. I am afraid I don't have the patience or the skill to do that kind on work on my bridgeport. 
                   Paul]]></description>
      <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11352,11361#msg-11361</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 25 Mar 2013 22:15:19 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Stanley Spring U bolts</title>
      <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11352,11360#msg-11360</link>
      <author>1910 Stanley Model 60</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Jeff,
     I am only 2 hours from Indiana Amish country, Sound like a road trip is in order. It probably be wiser to make all new springs rather than replace any broken leafs.
               Paul]]></description>
      <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11352,11360#msg-11360</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 25 Mar 2013 22:11:12 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Stanley Spring U bolts</title>
      <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11352,11359#msg-11359</link>
      <author>1910 Stanley Model 60</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Rolly,
       I had my son draw a print in solidworks. The attached pdf can be rotated with the correct Adobe viewer. The casting source is building a tool to the print including correcting for shrink when the wax forms are poured. We added an .060 Radius at the 2 inside corners to get rid of the sharp points on the originals.
       The owner of the shop is 75 years old and was excited to do the job. He gave me a tour of his operation and it was very impressive. The attachment of the wax forms to the tree was truely an art form. 
       I have a die and holder that will allow me to thread the ends using a bridgeport. I am anxious to see the approval parts of this tool.
                  Paul]]></description>
      <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11352,11359#msg-11359</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 25 Mar 2013 22:00:04 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Stanley Spring U bolts</title>
      <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11352,11358#msg-11358</link>
      <author>Jeff Brown</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Heres some pics of doing it the hard way!

Jeff]]></description>
      <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11352,11358#msg-11358</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 25 Mar 2013 21:44:56 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Stanley Spring U bolts</title>
      <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11352,11357#msg-11357</link>
      <author>Rolly</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Jeff
There’s a cost factor involved. 
I water jet cut mine from plate then machined them to finish, but for the model EX there is not as much detail as the latter cars. And you only need 16. 
http://www.stanleysteamers.com/photoalbum/rolly/Springs-hardware/PA260002a.JPG


To get quality detail with the investment casting you need a very good mold to cast the wax parts. Also you have to have a foundry that works with the higher metals. 
If you use an exiting part, you won’t have the same thing because of the shrinkage.

To do it correctly you need to start from scratch with a new pattern. 
Of course today you can draw the part in 3-D to the correct over size for shrinkage and print the mold on a 3-D printer. But this cost money. Then you need the foundry that does the wax and makes the tree. 

The universals I made, I made the pattern, and I had a shop make the mold from my pattern, they also did the wax injection and also make the tree, but they had to bring the tree and ceramic mold to a foundry to get it purred. Some one they work with.

I don’t know what the cost is to have someone else to the whole thing. I do some 3-D drawings but I’m not there yet.
 
I found a 3-D drawing I did of my U-bolt but I never considered using it to do investment castings. 

Rolly]]></description>
      <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11352,11357#msg-11357</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 25 Mar 2013 16:24:36 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Stanley Spring U bolts</title>
      <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11352,11356#msg-11356</link>
      <author>Jeff Brown</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I stand corrected Rolly - you mean I didn't have to spend 2 months in front of my milling machine!

Jeff]]></description>
      <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11352,11356#msg-11356</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 25 Mar 2013 15:13:42 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Stanley Spring U bolts</title>
      <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11352,11355#msg-11355</link>
      <author>Rolly</author>
      <description><![CDATA[The late Stuart Herrmann use to make Model R springs from scratch. He would water jet cut the leafs from 0.250 annelid spring steel stock. Then mill or grinned the taper on each end and clean up all the edges, next he rolled them to the required radius, he had templates for each leaf. 
Then they would all go out to the heat shop to be tempered and drawn. 
He would assemble them and heat the tab to be bent over. The first ones he made did not have the bent tabs. 

I am not sure if his son Mark is going to carry on this work. Look him up he is in Connecticut 
Rolly]]></description>
      <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11352,11355#msg-11355</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 25 Mar 2013 10:08:56 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Stanley Spring U bolts</title>
      <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11352,11354#msg-11354</link>
      <author>Rolly</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Dear Jeff
Investment castings have come a long way in the industry. I see no problem in high quality parts. 4130 has a tensile strength of 97200 Lb with a yield of 63100 Lb 
I would have no problem with cast U bolts made this way. 
You would still have to do a setup for the threads if you wanted the tolerance. 
http://www.ruger.com/casting/P-Overview.html

http://www.ruger.com/casting/T-Steel.html

I made my spindles and yokes for my front end from A-148 structural steel castings 110,000 Lb tensile 
http://www.stanleysteamers.com/photoalbum/rolly/axle/P2220003.JPG
http://www.stanleysteamers.com/photoalbum/rolly/axle/P1010033a.jpg

I used an investment casting process to make my little universals for my cylinder blow down valve. Nice detail. 
http://www.stanleysteamers.com/photoalbum/rolly/pumps,tanks,parts/Valve%20universals%20.JPG


Rolly]]></description>
      <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11352,11354#msg-11354</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 25 Mar 2013 06:20:10 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Stanley Spring U bolts</title>
      <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11352,11353#msg-11353</link>
      <author>Jeff Brown</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Hi Paul,

I think I would be a bit wary of casting the U bolts - they are very thin in cross section and I would think you would risk cracks in the corners.  I think the originals were forged - I milled mine from solid bar which took a while but at least I know the steel is good throughout.

For springs, I searched high and low for an old style auto spring maker without success.  Then I hit on the idea of the springs they make for horse drawn wagons.  These are elliptical and made in varying widths.  I got mine from Texas Wagon Works - they needed a lot of work to make them right as the leaves were the wrong length and the taper was too short but they were a good start.  Also they are only supplied with a bolt and thick washers to join the two halves so I had to make the proper shaped bolts.  It took about a month of weekends and evenings to cut and grind all of them to shape.  You may also want to keep an eye on Ebay  but look under wagon springs rather than car springs.

I think there are a couple of Amish spring makers that could make them for you but I had no luck in trying to contact them.

Hope this helps

Jeff]]></description>
      <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11352,11353#msg-11353</guid>
      <pubDate>Sun, 24 Mar 2013 21:39:32 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Stanley Spring U bolts</title>
      <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11352,11352#msg-11352</link>
      <author>1910 Stanley Model 60</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I am having an investment casting tool built for u bolts for my 1910 Stanley. If anyone is interested in purchasing any of these please PM me.We are casting them from 4130 steel. I am currently waiting for the pilot run for part approval. Pricing will depend upon the size of my order.
   On a similar note, I have a few broken springs. Does anyone have a source for making new springs?
                          Paul]]></description>
      <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11352,11352#msg-11352</guid>
      <pubDate>Sat, 23 Mar 2013 14:04:06 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: 1908 H5 rear hub assembly</title>
      <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11343,11351#msg-11351</link>
      <author>laheyth</author>
      <description><![CDATA[OK, I can leave more space. 
I think the CPES product is about $60 for 2 quarts...that will be a good starter volume., I think the slow cure would be best.

Anybody have any 33 x 4 junk tires I can buy to use while I build this car...it might be a while,since I still work full time.I hate to buy new tires and have them sit around for a long time ...]]></description>
      <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11343,11351#msg-11351</guid>
      <pubDate>Wed, 13 Mar 2013 20:49:01 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: 1908 H5 rear hub assenbly</title>
      <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11343,11350#msg-11350</link>
      <author>Rolly</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Dear Tom
Are you going to send the hubs and drum to Bill Calimer. I would leave 0.125 to 01875 for future tightening. I was in one wheel shop and watched a wheel made from start to finish. Can’t remember what shop. They turned the sleeve shorter to suite.
The only thing I did not like was that the final assembly of the hub’s was not done on and axle for aliment. They assemble the spokes and Fellow and press on the rim, then it’s mounted on a large four foot three jaw chuck and the hole is bored in the center to fit the sleeve, but they don’t turn the face of where the hub face sits on the spokes. 
I socked all my wood with an epoxy made for marine rot repair. It has a five hour cure time and you keep applying till the wood will not take any more. New wood may not take much. 
I also applied a hard wax to the inside face of the hub plates, and applied a bedding epoxy to the area of the wood where the plated would press to the spokes to fill all void spaces. 
Rolly]]></description>
      <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11343,11350#msg-11350</guid>
      <pubDate>Wed, 13 Mar 2013 10:31:58 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: 1908 H5 rear hub assenbly</title>
      <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11343,11349#msg-11349</link>
      <author>laheyth</author>
      <description><![CDATA[I emailed Bill Calimer, he confirmed the spokes will be 1.375 thick.
I will plan the sleeve such that it is about .05 short, this should give me good compression between hub and brake drum.
I will shrink fit one end only,( thinking the drum end )and a size for size fit on the other end so there is no chance of it wobbling or wearing later.
I will make the sleeve the same dia. as the front sleeve, 2.75 od.
Since these are new wheels, I will epoxy  them before painting them.
Tom]]></description>
      <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11343,11349#msg-11349</guid>
      <pubDate>Tue, 12 Mar 2013 21:48:40 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Amelia Island auction March 2013</title>
      <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11347,11348#msg-11348</link>
      <author>Peter Turvey</author>
      <description><![CDATA[More details of car at http://www.rmauctions.com/lots/lot.cfm?lot_id=1057667]]></description>
      <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11347,11348#msg-11348</guid>
      <pubDate>Tue, 12 Mar 2013 13:56:44 -0400</pubDate>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Amelia Island auction March 2013</title>
      <link>http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11347,11347#msg-11347</link>
      <author>Rolly</author>
      <description><![CDATA[Amelia Island auction March 2013
http://www.rmauctions.com/results/result.cfm?SaleCode=AM13

Lot 187
1911 Stanley Model 63 
Sold for $134,750]]></description>
      <category>1 Steam Cars</category>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://stanleysteamers.com/phorum-5.1/read.php?1,11347,11347#msg-11347</guid>
      <pubDate>Mon, 11 Mar 2013 13:25:36 -0400</pubDate>
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