The lubricator in my 740 roadster delivers oil when turning the hand crank but just moves the needle on the dash indicator with the engine driven arm. I'm looking for a drawing before I open it up but google images doesn't show anything useful. I've had a lubricator apart before but it was a long time ago.

The other problem is the drive linkages have a bush comprising a steel shell with copper wire inside as the running surface. The copper has disintegrated making for a lot of slop in the linkage. OK to replace with a bush machined from oilite as a replacement?

Any advice gratefully received

Cheers
Mark

The only way for the 740 lubrication gauge to show any oil delivery is when there is steam pressure in the steam line for it to register against, as in when climbing a hill. This is a situation where the winker would give you a more accurate report. Oilite is a superior bushing material. I would use it.

Oilite material is fine for rotating shafts with lite load. I would much rather use bearing bronze stock for reciprocating movement.
Rolly

Sorry my description of what happens with the lubricator was very unclear. The hand crank delivers oil when checked at the unscrewed fitting on the elbow into the engine. When hand cranked the oil delivery gauge on the dash deflects full scale then drops back, the same as I have observed on 740's being driven on the road. The hand crank pulses the gauge to near full deflection every rotation just delivering into a tin.

When I manually oscillate the lever that is normally engine driven (or even when I run the engine on air) the needle on the gauge just moves up about an 1/4 inch.
I haven't checked the oil output when using the drive lever so that's next on the test scheme. I will also hook every thing up and run the engine once the bushes are replaced and with the line disconnected and again check the oil flow.

Many thanks for the feedback anything that gets my brain looking at the problem differently is welcome!

Cheers
Mark

Rolly knows his metals. :)

Mark,
I have a Madison Kipp handbook that I can scan parts of for you. Send me a PM..
I am not at home at this time and weather is not cooperating on letting me get there either.
As for the operation of the lubricator, the hand crank operates the pump piston a full stroke per revolution of the hand crank.
The operation of the lever takes up one tooth on a ratchet wheel. Memory fails me but the ratchet wheel has a tooth count of 18 or so. This means piston travel is less with each cycle of the lever (18:1) than with one turn of the crank (1:1). I hope I described this in an understandable way.

Now if I can get mine to work like yours. It is holding me up from touring however I did find that there is a check valve in the outlet of the pump, the fitting with what looks like a screw adjustment on it. It was gummed up and maybe this will be the cure. What looks like a adjustment screw is really slotted screw and becomes a 'test port' when loostened to observe oil delivery from the pump outlet.

Good luck,

Larry