Well, I'm working on a 23 Stanley Limo?, well a closed car with wind up (!) windows and a cigar lighter! A Springfield body, chassis number stamped on frame is 23622, but on ID plate is 33622??. What's odd is there is (1) no siphon tube holder at right rear nor does it appear there ever was one and (2) while installing plumbing on this thing (all was missing) it turns out there is no cold water return to the water tank! There's no casting, no sign the tank's ever been patched, nothing. I'm guessing this was an in town car only, no need to siphon so I think they had just ran the return to the siphon fitting. Or I suppose it could tee into the exhaust line to the condenser, would help with condensing I guess. Also does anyone have a drip valve cable and housing they would part with for a 740? Thanks Ron Parola

Ron I don’t know what you mean by a drip valve and cable
You can make a Siphon hear is my drawing.
Rolly
[www.stanleysteamers.com]

The cylinder drain valve on the 740s is controlled by a flexible cable that sticks out between the drivers legs under the seat next to the air tank valves; that's what is missing. Hard to find bidirectional cable for sale, the companies will make a thousand of them, just not one. And no we don't need a siphon, I'm just trying to see if anyone knows if Stanley ever returned the excess feed water through the siphon pipe since there is no water tank return fitting Thanks Ronp

Ron, My 1922 735 B was one of the last 735s built and it has some of the 740 features. One is the bypassed cold water return. The bypassed cold water return returns to the top tank of the condenser. The entrance for it is on the driver's side of the condenser's top tank. 7/16" tubing was used in the plumbing. The reason for the top tank location is to hopefully chill the condenser so that it will work better. Your drip valve control cable that you need, I had one on my shelf about ten years ago and I haven't noticed it since then. It even had a twist knob on the top end. It was amazingly beefy. The outside cable housing, as a guess would have it, was about 3/4" or less diameter. I will keep my eyes open for it. Don Hoke (Texas) has had a lot of condensing car parts go through his hands lately. Maybe he has a cable? Our 1922 has only 17,000 original miles on it and is a good Stanley to use as reference.

Well no fitting at top of condenser either, BUT who knows if the tank or condenser is original, I'm going to be pulling the water tank out anyway so I may just put a fitting there. Yeah keep an eye out for the cable, yup 3/4 od on housing and .450 cable TORQUE! This may be also LOW mileage 3950!, rear end gears look NEW. Thanks ronp

Thanks for the info. I'm working on the condenser of My 740 and the top header tank has a 1/4" plug on the drivers side rear of the tank. Wondered what that was for.
The cylinder drain valve on the engine is like all early cars long valve stem through the side of the body to a universal joint. The valve was on a long nipple so it was really exposed so I've shortened the nipple. The valve stem just rattles in the hole in the body side.
I'll check if there are signs of a previously fitted cable.

Mark

Closed cars should have the the inside cable controlled steam chest drip valve. Our '22 model 735 B has windows and when they are shut, it is quite hard to quickly reach outside and open the steam chest drip valve. That happens when you are in traffic and the engine has just accidentally slipped into reverse at a stop sign.

If you find a source for this cable to actuate the drip, I'll be looking for one on my '22 740 Sedan project. It was a Touring chassis so it has the outside drip, but I'd like to change it to the inside model.

Ron, I finally found my Stanley steam chest drip valve control cable. It works good, it has a 740 handle, and I don't see any problems with it. I looked at the inner cable and it looks like new as no wear is evident. The bottom end looks like it was drug on the asphalt for a short piece as it has been rounded off a bit, which doesn't hurt its use at all. The top end should also have the nickel plating redone. I would like to sell the whole control cable, housing and all. Not just the cable out of the housing. If interested, call me at 360-856-1294 (Jan/22/15 ...Ron is the new owner of it.)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/22/2015 08:02PM by SSsssteamer.