Re: Hydraulic Brakes,not likely
Posted by:
coburn benson (IP Logged)
Date: December 12, 2001 01:05AM
<HTML>As I said above,,,the issue is control ,,,A mechanical brake should slide the wheels on dry pavement,,Period,,If not fix em,,,If you preffer internal brake swop the rods as some of the Pierce drivers did! I am beginning to feel as we venture into modern traffic we will be [forced] convinced to adopt 4 wheel brakes. At this point ,stress on the perch poles will be a peoblem.....I recall a article on getti'n a ''good'' break on a 99 loco The best material to get a grip,,wet or dry [wet w /oil!] was DRY ELM WOOD!! It seems it got such a good grip that it wound up the steel tubular purch rods !! I have seen a few,,very few Stanley pre 15 w/f brakes fitted ,,,Could we hear from anyone how they like this ,and if there were any UNFORSEEN problems,,, To cool the rear brake [2w] is it water or steam to the drum,,,,,,,,XXXX If the lining is to catch fire the brake fluid will almost certainly BOIL,,,, a common failing before hi temp fluid,,,,,An yes, been there done that,,,and even once on these failings is once too much,,,,Can ruin a whole day [year]!!While i'm up,,,,,IF THE drums get seriously overheated check the spokes ,,they will usually loosten if burned a little,,,and a colapsed wheel is no joke either ,, One final dig Have any of you out there driven that wonderful modern 4w/b front DISK HYDRULIC the,,,,,,,,XK 120M Jag in the RAIN, so you lived ,,,we should start a sub-club an tell all these guys what real juce brakes CAN be and how very agile we were back then,, I can almost remember,,,Cheers Ben</HTML>