1 Steam Cars : Phorum
General Steam Car topics
Info - Paint
Posted by: Norm (IP Logged)
Date: March 22, 2005 05:53PM
<HTML>Does anyone know how the paint was applied to Stanleys? I've checked the new book but can't find anything. Ivisited the Boyertown,PA car museum last summer. They have an exhibit showing how the aluminum bodies were made over wood. A drawing in the exhibit showed workers using brushes. Did Stanley start with brushes and then change to spray? If so, when. Just curious. Norm</HTML>
Re: Info - Paint
Posted by: Rolly (IP Logged)
Date: March 22, 2005 07:22PM
<HTML>The wooden body cars were most probably painted, as were the wooden carriages of the day. I have been trying to find this information as well.
Most everyone I have talked to that has repainted or restored there car has used modern material.
When I went to Hershey PA, I visit a wooden coach builder. And bought a book called
Practical Carriage and Wagon Painting, by M.C. Hillick.
Rolly</HTML>
Most everyone I have talked to that has repainted or restored there car has used modern material.
When I went to Hershey PA, I visit a wooden coach builder. And bought a book called
Practical Carriage and Wagon Painting, by M.C. Hillick.
Rolly</HTML>
Re: Info - Paint
Posted by: Mike Clark (IP Logged)
Date: March 23, 2005 12:06AM
<HTML>I can’t comment specifically about the painting of Stanleys but think they would have been brush painted with coach finish and then varnished. This was the usual way of painting small volume manufacture and the highest quality cars right up to 1925 when cellulose came in. Often the black parts like fenders were sprayed or dipped and baked (stove enamel) and this is why the Model T was done in black. This could not be done with coach finish.
I have brush painted several cars and know very well why it is rarely done today - a typical large Stanley would need 200 hours work! It took less time on a new car in the factory but still was a real bottle-neck to production.
The problem with coach paint is that it needs lots of coats which need time to dry and much flatting down. Dust is the main diffficulty but there is also skill in avoiding runs of paint. The surface finish can be completely free of brushmarks (this is mostly down to proper flatting down and to skill with the brush) and when varnished the final gloss is far better than any two pack job. I coachpainted my Model H with a modern synthetic coach finish called Tekaloid which is still around and which gives a really good gloss without varnish. It is not possible to cut back and polish coach paint as you would with cellulose or two pack - the final finish is what you get when it dries- for this reason it is hard to repair small scratches and bumps.
Coachpaint is more flexible than other paint and is good on wooden bodies but on a Stanley which tends to get oily (!), hot and wet and usually all three at the same time I think a modern finish is more practical although not as pleasing or authentic.
Here is a link [www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk] which tells more.
Mike</HTML>
I have brush painted several cars and know very well why it is rarely done today - a typical large Stanley would need 200 hours work! It took less time on a new car in the factory but still was a real bottle-neck to production.
The problem with coach paint is that it needs lots of coats which need time to dry and much flatting down. Dust is the main diffficulty but there is also skill in avoiding runs of paint. The surface finish can be completely free of brushmarks (this is mostly down to proper flatting down and to skill with the brush) and when varnished the final gloss is far better than any two pack job. I coachpainted my Model H with a modern synthetic coach finish called Tekaloid which is still around and which gives a really good gloss without varnish. It is not possible to cut back and polish coach paint as you would with cellulose or two pack - the final finish is what you get when it dries- for this reason it is hard to repair small scratches and bumps.
Coachpaint is more flexible than other paint and is good on wooden bodies but on a Stanley which tends to get oily (!), hot and wet and usually all three at the same time I think a modern finish is more practical although not as pleasing or authentic.
Here is a link [www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk] which tells more.
Mike</HTML>
Re: Info - Paint
Posted by: Norm (IP Logged)
Date: March 24, 2005 01:34AM
<HTML>Thanks for your replies, checked out the Stephen Hull site. I've brushed varnish on several boats, that method would slow up production for sure. I agree with Mike, a modern finish would be more practical and durable. Norm</HTML>
Re: Info - Paint
Posted by: Ben in Maine (IP Logged)
Date: March 24, 2005 12:27PM
<HTML>Hi,,Don't forget the Stanley's patented the airbrush,,,It was one of their first patents,,but I dont know if that technology got to Amesbury,,Cheers Ben</HTML>
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