1 Steam Cars : Phorum
General Steam Car topics
Stanley lubricator
Posted by: Mark Stacey (IP Logged)
Date: August 10, 2003 07:33AM
<HTML>I'm replacing the drive and generally cleaning and tidying up my Madison Kipp Model F lubricator and now have a few questions.
The last patent date on the label is 1913 but suposedly it was fitted to a 740 Stanley.I've found since extracting it from the neither regions of Black Betty and removing 20 years of congealed Super Hecla Superheat oil from its top the level gauge is actually functional but has no protective lens or cover. Is it suposed to have one?
There is also a slotted boss which at its base has engraved less and more with arrows. Does this control volume or pressure?
The outer ring of screws that hold the top plate to the body of the lubticator has a few missing screws and the remainder is a mix of dome, pan, cheese and taper heads. Any advise on the thread type and the correct head?
Thanks for any help
Mark Stacey</HTML>
The last patent date on the label is 1913 but suposedly it was fitted to a 740 Stanley.I've found since extracting it from the neither regions of Black Betty and removing 20 years of congealed Super Hecla Superheat oil from its top the level gauge is actually functional but has no protective lens or cover. Is it suposed to have one?
There is also a slotted boss which at its base has engraved less and more with arrows. Does this control volume or pressure?
The outer ring of screws that hold the top plate to the body of the lubticator has a few missing screws and the remainder is a mix of dome, pan, cheese and taper heads. Any advise on the thread type and the correct head?
Thanks for any help
Mark Stacey</HTML>
Re: Stanley lubricator
Posted by: Jim Crank (IP Logged)
Date: August 10, 2003 01:58PM
<HTML>Mark,
Yes, there was a small disk of what looks like some form of plastic in the face of that gauge.
The adjustment screw controls volume flow. Pressure delivered by the pump depends on what it has to pump against. Those Madison Kipp pumps can easily go to 3000 psi.
Sure, tap them out and if you want to be correct, use filister headed screws.
Dobles used the same pump; but put it inside their own housing.
Jim</HTML>
Yes, there was a small disk of what looks like some form of plastic in the face of that gauge.
The adjustment screw controls volume flow. Pressure delivered by the pump depends on what it has to pump against. Those Madison Kipp pumps can easily go to 3000 psi.
Sure, tap them out and if you want to be correct, use filister headed screws.
Dobles used the same pump; but put it inside their own housing.
Jim</HTML>
Re: Stanley lubricator
Posted by: eric gleason (IP Logged)
Date: August 14, 2003 01:31AM
<HTML>I was out for a short spin in my 1918 735 on Sunday when I noticed that the oiler was not working, I had used the hand crank when starting out and it had seemed just fine, the needle moved and everything, after about a mile of driving I noticed that the needle was pegged on the off side of the indicator, it usually rests a bit above even when not "on". I was only a block or two from my shop when this happened so I stopped and tried the crank and it just kind of spun free, with a bit of a grinding noise, no pumping, so, I headed straight home, hope I did not do any damage. Now I have got to tear it down I guess and see what the trouble is, any suggestions? Also, does anyone know of a source of 7/16 OD copper tubing, the lines to and from my water level automatic are this size and I can not seem to find a source for replacements, I dropped the automatic to try and get the water level at the right heigth in the boiler but now need a new section of tubing. Thanks, Eric</HTML>
Re: Stanley lubricator
Posted by: Rolly (IP Logged)
Date: August 14, 2003 08:21AM
<HTML>Eric
Check the Gland Nut ID It’s most likely 3/8 OD tubing. You may be measuring a bad section.
Rolly</HTML>
Check the Gland Nut ID It’s most likely 3/8 OD tubing. You may be measuring a bad section.
Rolly</HTML>
Re: Stanley lubricator
Posted by: David K Nergaard (IP Logged)
Date: August 17, 2003 11:31AM
<HTML>Rolly, 7/16 tube was used a great deal on Stanleys, as was 5/16. However it is not a normal size these days.
Eric, you may have to refit your car with 3/8 tube and fittings if you can't find 7/16. Perhaps contacting the Stanley Museum would reveal a source.</HTML>
Eric, you may have to refit your car with 3/8 tube and fittings if you can't find 7/16. Perhaps contacting the Stanley Museum would reveal a source.</HTML>
Re: Stanley lubricator
Posted by: Roland Evans (IP Logged)
Date: August 17, 2003 01:39PM
<HTML>McMaster Carr Has copper tube in metric sizes 10 mm & 12 mm. I did not see 11 mm listed. 11 mm would be .4330
Check with Alaskan copper [www.alaskancopper.com] might have it.
Rolly</HTML>
Check with Alaskan copper [www.alaskancopper.com] might have it.
Rolly</HTML>
Re: Stanley lubricator
Posted by: Christopher W. Roberts (IP Logged)
Date: August 18, 2003 03:43AM
<HTML> 7/16 is pretty much impossible to find. It's worth it's weight in gold. Almost all of my 7/16" tubing was gone, and I have replaced it with 3/8". 3/8" is easier to bend than 1/2". Of course 1/2 will allow more water to flow.
As to the oil pump, they are pretty easy to rebuild. I found the gasket on the top between the pump and the tank lid works best with a plain manilla folder gasjet. Dip the pump body in some oil, and use it as a stamp, then cut the gasket out, I have tried copper, brass, steel. non asbestos, asbestos, and the manilla folder material works the best.
The needle should always be a little above the off posision. Check all the oil lines and the check valve, for any clogs, or breaks. The inlet to the steam line can also get clogged.</HTML>
As to the oil pump, they are pretty easy to rebuild. I found the gasket on the top between the pump and the tank lid works best with a plain manilla folder gasjet. Dip the pump body in some oil, and use it as a stamp, then cut the gasket out, I have tried copper, brass, steel. non asbestos, asbestos, and the manilla folder material works the best.
The needle should always be a little above the off posision. Check all the oil lines and the check valve, for any clogs, or breaks. The inlet to the steam line can also get clogged.</HTML>
Re: Stanley lubricator/gasket
Posted by: C Benson (IP Logged)
Date: August 18, 2003 11:28AM
<HTML>Pierce-Arrow an' others used leather gaskets,,cement meat side to one side if you wish,,,,leaving the hair side to come an go,,,,this will allow easy access for years,,,,My 1915 Pierce was gasketted this way,,,,,just watch for the extra space/problems,, use thin leather,,,some cars used no gasket at all of course,,,,Cheers Ben</HTML>
Re: Stanley lubricator
Posted by: Bruce Waterworth (IP Logged)
Date: August 20, 2003 12:49AM
<HTML> Not too long ago I bought 7/16 tube at NAPA . They have 25 and 50 ft rolls listed but both times I purchased it they were only able to get the 25ft one. They had it in 2 days. Good Luck. Bruce.</HTML>
Re: Stanley lubricator
Posted by: Eric Gleason (IP Logged)
Date: August 23, 2003 11:33PM
<HTML>So, I went to the Napa store after spending a lot of time looking elsewhere. The Napa store was only a block away, I had gone there before, but this time I was more persistent and they looked it up. Had it in the catalog and it will be here in two days, Thanks. Also went to tear down the lubricator but tested it again before and now it seems to work fine, will have to fire it up and see if it works under pressure. Thanks again, Eric</HTML>
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